Clutch replace

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got the master out. The reservoir hose should be replaced. One of the hose clamps was even rusted through so it just fell off. Was thinking of replacing the master mounting screws with "Allen" head type. The top screw is the pain to remove because the arm on the clutch linkage is right over the screw.

[Bitsyncmaster]

My old master cylinder has what looks like a white salt filling the boot where the clevis goes. This end of the cylinder is inside the car so I guess it's from the DOT4 fluid. Has anyone seen this before? Don't know what that would do to my clutch system.

[David T]

Got to be some form of corrosion. Definitely not good. Probably means the seals are leaking.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Was installing the new master cylinder. The new boot has to be pulled off the master end to fit through the hole in the firewall. I did buy Allen head bolts to replace the Phillips head mount bolts (10 mm 1.5 30 mm long). I was cleaning the reservoir and notice the cap has a small air vent. Modern cars have a bellows on the cap so air is not vented into the reservoir. Maybe a clutch flush more often is necessary.

I was also going to install the flywheel and pressure plate but wanted to chase the threads since you should clean out the old locktite. The flywheel bolts are 10mm 1.0 thread which is a rare tap size so I have to run down to ACE to buy one.

[David T]

All owners should be flushing and replacing their brake fluid at least every other year. If you have a 5-speed you must also do the clutch fluid at the same time. It is a WHOLE lot cheaper and easier than replacing the parts when they go bad because the fluid rotted things inside. IMHO Locktite is not necessary on the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. It IS necessary on the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft. Typically I do not use a tap to "clean" threads in preparation for Locktite. Locktite has a primer if you think you need it. Some compressed air in the bolt holes to blow out any dirt should be sufficient. You are correct about the air, because the fluid is in contact with the air it allows moisture and condensation to eventually contaminate the brake fluid. By driving the car and heating up the brake fluid the moisture gets driven out. Because our cars aren't used alot the moisture builds up and turns the fluid acidic. It attacks the metal surfaces and then the seals leak because of the rough surfaces. By replacing the fluid before it goes bad you prevent the damage.

[DMC-81]

I used blue locktite on the pressure plate to flywheel bolts, and I always clean the old locktite or any sealing material out of any threads with a tap, then compressed air. The advantage is a cleaner surface for the Locktite to serve it's purpose and it allows a more accurate torque reading.

[Bitsyncmaster]

All owners should be flushing and replacing their brake fluid at least every other year. If you have a 5-speed you must also do the clutch fluid at the same time. It is a WHOLE lot cheaper and easier than replacing the parts when they go bad because the fluid rotted things inside.

All the more reason to get stainless sleeved master and slave.

[Ron]

...
I always clean the old locktite or any sealing material out of any threads with a tap, then compressed air. The advantage is a cleaner surface for the Locktite to serve it's purpose and it allows a more accurate torque reading.

+1 Loctite or not, if it's torqued, a tap is going in there so I can see the threads -- I don't like $urprises!

[David T]

Torque values are all assumed "dry" unless otherwise mentioned. Using Locktite interferes with the accuracy of the torque making it higher than it should be. The torque alone is supposed to be more than enough for most locations. The pressure plate bolts were not originally locktited in.

[DMC-81]

Torque values are all assumed "dry" unless otherwise mentioned. Using Locktite interferes with the accuracy of the torque making it higher than it should be.

Correct. What I do is cross reference the Workshop Manual torque values with an industry standard chart which takes dry/lubricated/plated situations, bolt strength & size, and materials when using anything other than dry.

The torque alone is supposed to be more than enough for most locations. The pressure plate bolts were not originally locktited in.

Well, I wouldn't consider a high speed rotating assembly that has to endure repeated high pressures to be included in "most locations". I'm sure that if we were mass assembling factory new parts, we would omit thread locker, but we are typically reassembling used parts especially the 9mm pressure plate bolts) where there is a loss of plating on the bolt, surface rust, dirt, etc. that can interfere with a tight fastener. Plus, DMC recommended thread locker in that location, even when I replaced the old 9mm bolts. I consider it cheap insurance.