Clutch replace

[Bitsyncmaster]

I got all the mount bolts loose, the push rod removed, tied the shift cable out of the way and have the engine bolted to a 2x4 to keep it from rocking down. I did that engine support because I did not want anything under the engine in the way of completing the removal.

Do I need to remove the E brake cable that crosses the tran? Or can it just push out of the way?

Will need to disconnect the clutch line and then remove all the bolts while I have the trans jack supporting the trans.

[DMC-81]

I got all the mount bolts loose, the push rod removed, tied the shift cable out of the way and have the engine bolted to a 2x4 to keep it from rocking down. I did that engine support because I did not want anything under the engine in the way of completing the removal.

Do I need to remove the E brake cable that crosses the tran? Or can it just push out of the way?

Will need to disconnect the clutch line and then remove all the bolts while I have the trans jack supporting the trans.

Yes, you'll need to remove the e-brake cable from the passenger side caliper. I just removed the cable ( not the bracket) and threaded it back through the aluminum air deflector and out of the way.

For the clutch, I didn't have to disconnect the line. I unbolted the slave and the hard line bracket (106320) and tied it out of the way ( on the driver's side lower link) .

[DMCMW Dave]

I just found them by feel.

Exactly, 100% by feel on these bolts. But as you found there is room for them to come out.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes, you'll need to remove the e-brake cable from the passenger side caliper. I just removed the cable ( not the bracket) and threaded it back through the aluminum air deflector and out of the way.

For the clutch, I didn't have to disconnect the line. I unbolted the slave and the hard line bracket (106320) and tied it out of the way ( on the driver's side lower link) .

My brake cable won't fit through the slot on the brake cable clamp. Yes I see there is a machined area on the cable threaded housing but it won't pass through the slot which is to small to let that machined area pass through.

Is there a way to remove the other end (at the e-brake handle? Or do I have to "machine" that slot wider somehow?

[DMC-81]

My brake cable won't fit through the slot on the brake cable clamp. Yes I see there is a machined area on the cable threaded housing but it won't pass through the slot which is to small to let that machined area pass through.

Is there a way to remove the other end (at the e-brake handle? Or do I have to "machine" that slot wider somehow?

I'm not sure about the handle end, but on the caliper end, if you remove the nut and washers on the outboard end ( assuming the handle end is relaxed) there is a spot in the cable where it will slide through the slot in the bracket. The spot is under spring tension so you have to move the cable inward against the bracket with the nut fully released, and then slide it sideways.

One other tip: I counted threads on the cable for reference (and/or took a picture) before removing the nuts so I could get the cable back in the ballpark of adjustment afterwards.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm not sure about the handle end, but on the caliper end, if you remove the nut and washers on the outboard end ( assuming the handle end is relaxed) there is a spot in the cable where it will slide through the slot in the bracket. The spot is under spring tension so you have to move the cable inward against the bracket with the nut fully released, and then slide it sideways.

One other tip: I counted threads on the cable for reference (and/or took a picture) before removing the nuts so I could get the cable back in the ballpark of adjustment afterwards.

Yes I saw that spot in the cable but my bracket was not machined wide enough in the slot. I guess some brackets were made this way and they must have fixed it later. Anyway, I did get it machined using my Dremal and a small cutter. Not sure if I damaged the threads on the cable housing so I may have to replace it if I did. It does look like the top of that slot was bent up when they assembled the car.

[Jason]

Yes, you'll need to remove the e-brake cable from the passenger side caliper. I just removed the cable ( not the bracket) and threaded it back through the aluminum air deflector and out of the way.

I did my clutch recently, and didn't have to disconnect the parking brake cable. I was able to just push it forward past the front of the transmission. It did mean I had to have one hand pushing on the cable while the other had was lowering the transmission jack.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I did my clutch recently, and didn't have to disconnect the parking brake cable. I was able to just push it forward past the front of the transmission. It did mean I had to have one hand pushing on the cable while the other had was lowering the transmission jack.

I suspect that is how it's done on a lift when two people can help when dropping the transmission. I'm pretty sure my clutch was replaced prior and that brake cable was never removed.

[DMC-81]

I tend to agree. I’m sure there is other ways to do it, but the manual states to remove it, and I found little room to slide the gearbox forward without having to clear the cable. Plus if you are by yourself, you’ll want to get everything out of the way to make things as easy as possible.

But, whatever works for you.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I tend to agree. I’m sure there is other ways to do it, but the manual states to remove it, and I found little room to slide the gearbox forward without having to clear the cable. Plus if you are by yourself, you’ll want to get everything out of the way to make things as easy as possible.

But, whatever works for you.

The fastest and easiest way to disconnect the cable is is to leave the threaded adjuster undisturbed and simply remove the 19mm locknut and small bolt from the brkt to hub and the 10mm locknut on the cable end. This is much faster than the other method.
Rob