Clutch replace

[Bitsyncmaster]

While waiting to find out what caused my clutch to slip, I want to pull the flywheel to see if I need to replace the main seal on the engine. The book says those bolts on the flywheel used locktite. So would an impact wrench get those bolts out without using heat?

I'm wondering if my flywheel was resurfaced and therefor has and insufficient step. The step would move the clutch assembly closer to the flywheel.

[DMC5180]

The bolts have Blue Loctite. You won’t have any issue removing them. The bolt pattern is not evenly spaced. So the flywheel can only be installed one way for indexing.

The .016 step sounds correct as I recall.

Do you recall at what point in the pedal travel that the clutch would engage/disengage? High, middle or low?

Do you have the factory solid pedal link or the adjustable one (PJ Grady)?

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[DMC-81]

While waiting to find out what caused my clutch to slip, I want to pull the flywheel to see if I need to replace the main seal on the engine. The book says those bolts on the flywheel used locktite. So would an impact wrench get those bolts out without using heat?

I'm wondering if my flywheel was resurfaced and therefor has and insufficient step. The step would move the clutch assembly closer to the flywheel.

Rob Grady or definitely DMCH can verify the proper step spec. I don't have it in my notes, other than this picture. I remember running my finger over the step, and it seemed to be more than .016" , but I could be wrong.

Also, since you mentioned oil dripping from the bell housing, did you notice any oil on the friction plate or flywheel? Just checking that off for a potential theory for the clutch slipping. It's weird that it slipped/failed after an hour or so.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Rob Grady or definitely DMCH can verify the proper step spec. I don't have it in my notes, other than this picture. I remember running my finger over the step, and it seemed to be more than .016" , but I could be wrong.

Also, since you mentioned oil dripping from the bell housing, did you notice any oil on the friction plate or flywheel? Just checking that off for a potential theory for the clutch slipping. It's weird that it slipped/failed after an hour or so. [/IMG]

I would think anyone that gets the flywheel resurfaced would need to know the proper step. Yes I also thought about oil causing the slip. I did not see any signs of oil on any of the friction surfaces but it has been sitting about 10 months since it happened. I really don't want to put things back together without finding what caused the problem. I'm wondering if the spring pressure pressing on the friction surface is at fault. Not sure how I could test that.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Just looking over things and I find the shaft on the transmission can move side to side quite a bit. I think I saw this question asked before somewhere but can't find that post. Since that shaft couples to the engine drive shaft I guess that large movement is normal.

Also see my boot on the clutch slave is torn.

Also the "bellows" boot on the shift linkage shaft just flops around so there is a little oil leak there. Don't see what hold that boot tight.

Is this normal on the arm to the shift linkage (photo attached)? I don't see this in the DMC books.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Flywheel bolts had red locktite on them. No problems removing them with impact wrench.

Note the friction surface still shows that it was machined on a mill with a fly cutter. So the step would have to done on a lathe or mounted on a rotary table on the mill. No machine marks there.

[DMC-81]

Just looking over things and I find the shaft on the transmission can move side to side quite a bit. I think I saw this question asked before somewhere but can't find that post. Since that shaft couples to the engine drive shaft I guess that large movement is normal.

Also see my boot on the clutch slave is torn.

Also the "bellows" boot on the shift linkage shaft just flops around so there is a little oil leak there. Don't see what hold that boot tight.

Is this normal on the arm to the shift linkage (photo attached)? I don't see this in the DMC books.

Yes, that bellows movement is normal. There is a lip seal, 103049 that provides the shaft seal, pictured here:


I would suggest replacing both while the transmission is out since the are already leaking.

That picture of the mic tool on the flywheel step looks more normal to me. I would agree to double check it .

I too was wondering about the fingers and the weights failing (most likely due to heat?)as a potential cause , but I don't know about the weaknesses in Centerforce clutch package.

[Bitsyncmaster]

That picture of the mic tool on the flywheel step looks more normal to me. I would agree to double check it .

The photo makes that step look big but it really is just 0.016" which is about the thickness of two hairs.

[DMC5180]

I fairly positive that the Centerforce clutch is nothing more than a Stock Valeo clutch with a paint job and the weight blocks added. I noticed Daves clutch had 6 - 98 hand written on it. My guess is thats when it was installed June of 98. I think I remember seeing Valeo stamped on the components of my clutch when I installed it about 20 years ago now.

IIRC: If you buy a Centerforce clutch now, you’re just getting a paint job only. They don’t add the weights anymore.

As far as a leaking clutch slave goes, I helped a friend do the clutch on his car many years back. It was very obvious he had leaking issues. The friction plate was a total mess of wet black goo. Basically friction dust mixed with fluid. The flywheel and pressure plate surfaces were deeply grooved from slippage.


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[Ron]

Dave, I think you may have missed Dennis' last post... I'm not sure it is possible, but if your D has an adjustment added for the pedal end (or both), I can imagine where all of the slack was taken out, making it release at extreme top pedal. Being too tight, the master's piston may not have enough travel to allow the last bit of fluid to flow into the reservoir (shy of port). This would make the linkage virtually solid as with non-hydraulic systems. Then as the clutch wears, the plate arms/fingers move out taking up space, which means more fluid can't return. Again, I'm not sure it is possible as I have never installed one, but if the pedal adjustment was installed w/o removing the pedal stop ("required"), maybe the pedal is not able to rise as far as it should (3/4" higher than the brake pedal, after update), adding to the problem. The pressure plate assembly would not be able to fully release... On non-hydraulic systems, this usually results with the throw out bearing failing and/or the clutch not engaging fully, but acts up ~equally hot/cold. Adding fluid and parts expanding with heat might be just enough to cause the pressure plate to ease up and allow slippage.
(Upgraded lines wouldn't expand like old plastic ones....)
Sounds a bit far fetched/too coincidental even to me, but I can't think of anything else to throw into the pot that would explain it acting up ONLY when hot and under heavy load.

This is a weird one!

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Rebuild shops can test the spring pressure, action,etc while assembled.

The movement in the shaft you mentioned might explain why you have always had trouble shifting into 1st or reverse mentioned in another thread (synchronizer alignment).