Today was a warm day so I drove the D around the neighborhood. It drove fine but looks like I have a clutch slave leak somewhere. Since this was only the second drive since the new clutch, I backed it up on ramps to check the main line to the short pipe connection and it looked dry. I don't think the slave to pipe fitting is leaking either. Don't think it's the Hervey bleeder line either. Hard to see much so I guess I will pull the intake off to see what is leaking. This is a new Hervey sleeved slave so I hope it's not internal to the slave.
Dave M vin 03572
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Location: Taylors SC
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Have you lost fluid in the reservoir. or do you have to pump the pedal to get it to disengage? That will tell you if it's an internal or external leak.
The master can leak internally, externally, or at the reservoir hose (won't usually cause a problem until it's dry). The slave can only leak externally.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Dave M vin 03572
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Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The clutch slave cylinder will only leak when it has pressure, when you step on the clutch pedal. If it leaks it must be rebuilt or replaced. Eventually you will lose enough fluid so that when you step on the pedal it won't leak anymore because you have lost all of the fluid. At that point you can't disengage the clutch or shift. Usually if one cylinder is leaking (either the master or the slave) you rebuild both figuring if one is leaking the other will too soon. This happens because the fluid is not flushed, it gets acidic and corrodes the inner bore of the cylinder. Once the inner bore gets pitted the seal gets torn as it is moved over the pits. Once the seals get torn they leak. Bottom line, to avoid leaks you flush the brake and clutch fluid at least every other year. Once you develop a leak you rebuild the whole system. You learn it is a LOT cheaper, easier and faster to flush the fluid rather than to have to rebuild everything. If you ignore the leaky clutch cylinders and force shifts you will bend the roll pin inside the transmission. Now you have to rebuild the transmission and maybe replace the clutch. Like that old saying "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"!
David Teitelbaum
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
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Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
If it is a new cylinder then something is wrong with it. Maybe the bleeder is not tight, the seal was damaged when installed, the pipe connection is leaking, could be a lot of things. You are correct, in this case it may not be simply a corroded inner bore and a torn seal. The OP must carefully inspect the cylinder and see where it is leaking from. No leakage can be tolerated no matter where it comes from.
David Teitelbaum
Well I pulled the slave. The boot was pushed off and covered with fluid. Should the piston be held in with a lock ring? Anyway I blew the piston out and the seal looked good as expected since this is a new (last summer) sleeved unit. Not sure if there was any contamination on the seal. The finish on the sleeve is not really polished since I see machine marks.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Man!, the luck you are having with this...
Send it back!
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
If it leaks either the cylinder is not smooth and round or the seal is bad or possibly both. If it was just sleeved contact the vendor you got it from. No leakage is acceptable.
David Teitelbaum