Clutch replace

[DMC-Ron]

Dave,
When this happened, was there a time when you had no power to the wheels in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear? Or did they immediately work after coasting to a stop?

I apologize if you already addressed this but wanted to clarify.

Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave,
When this happened, was there a time when you had no power to the wheels in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear? Or did they immediately work after coasting to a stop?

I apologize if you already addressed this but wanted to clarify.

Ron

From what I remember the first time I did not have to stop since I thought it just slipped out of gear so I continued. I think the next time I tried shifting but don't remember if I had to stop to get power again or not on the second time. But I do remember having to stop to get any gear to engage power for many times. I never really tested if a long time stop would have fixed it.

[Nicholas R]

This conversation has gotten really into the weeds regarding step height...

For what it's worth, when I made my first flywheel for my engine swap, I used a step height of .040" using a SpecialT re-surfaced kevlar disc, and a SpecialT "upgraded" Valeo pressure plate. I did it to ensure engagement, and potentially get a little bit more clamping, and more use from the clutch. It worked great, and never had any issues engaging or disengaging. Everything else about the clutch system was stock, with the exception of the SS braided clutch line.

Those components are still in my car now 6 years later, though admittedly I'm planning to switch soon to a new flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate design that doesn't use a step.

Regardless, my point is that I don't think you need to sweat a couple thousandths of an inch.

[DMC-Ron]

From what I remember the first time I did not have to stop since I thought it just slipped out of gear so I continued. I think the next time I tried shifting but don't remember if I had to stop to get power again or not on the second time. But I do remember having to stop to get any gear to engage power for many times. I never really tested if a long time stop would have fixed it.

OK. I was off on a tangent wondering if the shift linkage could be involved.
Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

I assume it's normal if you just turn one of the axle flanges the other one turns reverse and no input shaft turning. Then if you hold one flange and turn the other the input shaft then turns (in gear).

There is a little rust on the fork pivot ball and socket. The spring clip is in the way for cleaning the socket. Spring clip is riveted on, can I remove the clip to clean the area and then bolt the clip back on? Maybe I can clean the socket with a small Dremal brush without removing the spring clip.

I can feel a little wear on the "pipe" where the throwout bearing slides. I guess this is normal and does not warrant replacing that "pipe".

[Nicholas R]

I assume it's normal if you just turn one of the axle flanges the other one turns reverse and no input shaft turning. Then if you hold one flange and turn the other the input shaft then turns (in gear).

There is a little rust on the fork pivot ball and socket. The spring clip is in the way for cleaning the socket. Spring clip is riveted on, can I remove the clip to clean the area and then bolt the clip back on? Maybe I can clean the socket with a small Dremal brush without removing the spring clip.

I can feel a little wear on the "pipe" where the throwout bearing slides. I guess this is normal and does not warrant replacing that "pipe".

Just drill out the rivet, clean it, and then pop-rivet it back into place. It's not worth trying to put a bolt here and risking it coming loose. I did this to mine, except my clip had one of the blades broken off, so I made a replacement clip out of steel sheet.
Fork.jpg

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was cleaning things up getting ready to force test when I get my force gauge and noticed a little blue mark on the old pressure plate. I don't see any reason for this overheating in that one spot unless that is the first point of contact.

I still see the machine marks evenly all around that pressure plate.

[Ron]

After seeing this (and cataract surgery yesterday:-) I took another look at all of the pics. Not only does it appear that some of the weights were not moving as noted in post 54, pic 2, the parts are not on the same axis. IE, the circle(s) formed by the fingers, weights, and retainer/spring are not concentric. My guess is that you are right and your test will confirm that the area with the blue spot touches the flywheel first. And that it is doing this WAY before tolerances allowed for it to mate evenly, making the area over heat. There are a lot of hot spots and odd looking patterns on all of the mating surfaces. The fingers show signs of excessive throwout bearing preload (esp. when compared to the amount of wear on the disk). Which would mean the bearing was always turning. I hate to say it, but I'd get the flywheel resurfaced and replace the entire clutch set. (Hopefully the vendor will see the relatively small amount of wear on the disk and work with you...)

[Bitsyncmaster]

I already have the new clutch kit and I ordered Hervey's stainless lined master and slave (hope that is going to arrive).

Yes the weights are not all centered and I'm going to do a little more inspection there even though that pressure plate is just going to be trashed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bolted down the centerforce pressure plate on the flywheel with the new clutch disk. I did not see any possible way the weights could jam things. So I removed the weights so I could measure the angle of the fingers on the pressure plate and the angle is only 1.3 degrees from 90 (flat with the clutch). So it's such bull shit that the centerforce helps add force with dynamic forces.

The weights were not concentric so they probably upset the balance anyway. I see the flywheel was balanced but don't see the pressure plate had any balance drilled holes.

I'm machining a test "throwout bearing" so I can measure force required to release the clutch.