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Thread: Clutch replace

  1. #21
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    The fastest and easiest way to disconnect the cable is is to leave the threaded adjuster undisturbed and simply remove the 19mm locknut and small bolt from the brkt to hub and the 10mm locknut on the cable end. This is much faster than the other method.
    Rob
    Now you tell me.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #22
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    The fastest and easiest way to disconnect the cable is is to leave the threaded adjuster undisturbed and simply remove the 19mm locknut and small bolt from the brkt to hub and the 10mm locknut on the cable end. This is much faster than the other method.
    Rob
    Cool. I was motivated by not removing the bracket and the air deflector with my approach.

    Dave, when you get into the job and find that you need other things, Rob has some great transmission parts that are hard or impossible to find elsewhere.

    NOS clutch folks, seals, etc.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  3. #23
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Cool. I was motivated by not removing the bracket and the air deflector with my approach.

    Dave, when you get into the job and find that you need other things, Rob has some great transmission parts that are hard or impossible to find elsewhere.

    NOS clutch folks, seals, etc.
    From the looks of it, there is oil that looks like dripping from the bell housing. So I will probably need some seals. I also saw the rubber bellow where the shift linkage goes is torn and a little oil there. It's nice I'm not rushed to get this done. Was planning on pulling the transmission in the morning but turns out I have to take my granddaughter to camp.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #24
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Six bolts to go for dropping it. Two on each mount and the bottom two for bell housing to engine. There does not seem to be any pressure on the mount bolts yet so it seems well balanced. Now I stuck the jack under there and ready to chain the transmission to the jack.

    It looks like if you want to pull the transmission from under the car I will need to slide it off the jack since the jack sits so high even all the way down. And or I may have to jack the car up higher.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #25
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Can't get the transmission and engine to separate. Any tricks to do it? I'm using a pry bar from the frame to bottom of the bell housing and trying that with different pressures on my transmission jack (higher and lower).
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #26
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Clutch replace

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Can't get the transmission and engine to separate. Any tricks to do it? I'm using a pry bar from the frame to bottom of the bell housing and trying that with different pressures on my transmission jack (higher and lower).
    Have you removed all 3 protection plates on the engine side of the flywheel?

    Have you been able to create a gap in the mating surfaces of 1/8-1/4?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by DMC5180; 07-26-2018 at 08:10 AM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  7. #27
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Can't get the transmission and engine to separate. Any tricks to do it? I'm using a pry bar from the frame to bottom of the bell housing and trying that with different pressures on my transmission jack (higher and lower).
    Double check that everything is disconnected and if the drivetrain is level, it should only need a gentle pry. I found that the forward end of the transmission tended to tilt down off horizontal plane so I needed to use a wooden shim to correct that. If it does this, the input shaft is getting hung up on the pilot bearing.



    When the level is right it just separates easily. Look for an even gap vertically between where the engine and transmission meet. If it is not even, then that needs to be corrected.
    Last edited by DMC-81; 07-26-2018 at 08:08 AM.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  8. #28
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    My VIN:    03572

    I got it separated. Just took a break and when I went back it popped right off. I do have to lift the car higher to be able to move the transmission out of the way.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #29
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,773

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I got it separated. Just took a break and when I went back it popped right off. I do have to lift the car higher to be able to move the transmission out of the way.
    Not sure how high your jack stands are, but mine are 16 full up. At that height, I had too slide it off the trans jack onto the floor (cardboard under it) then it slid out without any trouble using space in the wheel opening.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,097

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Not sure how high your jack stands are, but mine are 16 full up. At that height, I had too slide it off the trans jack onto the floor (cardboard under it) then it slid out without any trouble using space in the wheel opening.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Well I have 2 6"x6" blocks under each rear tire (makes me feel safer when under the car) and my jack stands seem maxed out with one 2"x6" under the jack point. I put two 2"x6"s between the tires and ramps. It still is not high enough so I will need to slide it off the jack also to get it out.

    By the way, anyone else pulling the transmission, pull all the shift bracket off. I had left the pivot bracket on an it hit the coolant pipes. I did get it dropped but it took a lot of extra work.

    Looks like the transmission main seal is not leaking.

    What are these blocks held on the pressure plate?
    Attached Images
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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