The Iron Man DeLorean

[FABombjoy]

If you really want to get fancy, between the wiring for the mirrors, locks, windows, mirror heaters, perimeter lights, etc, there is enough current capacity and redundant wires to create a CAN network to control door-mounted options.

From a DIY perspective, 3x arduino modules with CAN shields - one in each door and one master module mounted centrally - would allow you to send commands to the doors instead of sending direct signals. Never pull a wire or touch the harness again. With sourced matching connectors it could be plug & play.

You would connect door "features" directly to the module, be they perimeter lights, mirror turn signals, mirror control, heated mirror circuits.
Change a pair of existing wires to become the CAN bus wires, and hook the modules to a switched 12v source.
With a little programming you could control any arbitrary number of devices connected to the doors.
Add a touch screen or bluetooth control to the master module.

[81dmc]

If you really want to get fancy, between the wiring for the mirrors, locks, windows, mirror heaters, perimeter lights, etc, there is enough current capacity and redundant wires to create a CAN network to control door-mounted options.

From a DIY perspective, 3x arduino modules with CAN shields - one in each door and one master module mounted centrally - would allow you to send commands to the doors instead of sending direct signals. Never pull a wire or touch the harness again. With sourced matching connectors it could be plug & play.

You would connect door "features" directly to the module, be they perimeter lights, mirror turn signals, mirror control, heated mirror circuits.
Change a pair of existing wires to become the CAN bus wires, and hook the modules to a switched 12v source.
With a little programming you could control any arbitrary number of devices connected to the doors.
Add a touch screen or bluetooth control to the master module.

I would recommend Bob to do this as well. I mean, for the kind of features he's looking at, it would be much easier to run at least one CAN network. I really never learned programming myself, so I opted out of doing that when I modded my car...

[jangell]

You probably don't even have to do CAN, but if you want to hook up a lot of devices, CAN is a good idea just to keep it expandable. If you just need remote modules for the doors and can wire everything else into the master module directly, you can probably just use the Arduino serial, especially if you use an Arduino Mega for the master (lots of pins and hardware serial ports to work with).

I got burned by a bad CAN Arduino module, so now I'm gun-shy about using CAN beyond MegaSquirt (which I did finally get working), but I'm guessing others won't have the problems I did. And the ease of expansion is pretty attractive...

Now I'm trying to think of what else I can put in the doors.

-- Joe

[Josh]

Just looking at the condition of most of the connectors (and not water resistant) in the roof box makes me leery of the idea of transferring data over the wiring to the doors.

[jangell]

I forget how many wires go to each door (is there a pinout of the connectors somewhere?), but if you use one existing wire for power and another for ground, you could use all the rest for communication. By which I mean hooking up (say) two wires to the same "send" pin and two to the same "receive" pin, thus providing redundancy for a bad wire. I'll think I'll switch to weather pack connectors before I tackle adding things to my doors, though.

I assume we're all talking about using existing wiring because it's incredibly difficult to run new wires down the doors, right?

-- Joe

[FABombjoy]

Just looking at the condition of most of the connectors (and not water resistant) in the roof box makes me leery of the idea of transferring data over the wiring to the doors.

I think it would be ok. Differential signaling and low current. If the locks and window motors work you should have enough integrity at the connector.

But you can use wireless methods or backup too: https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Ard.../dp/B00O9O868G

I assume we're all talking about using existing wiring because it's incredibly difficult to run new wires down the doors, right?

Exactly.

The first good candidate I can see would be the door lock switch wires:
-There is a common pair to each door
-They appear in an easy to locate harness in the relay compartment
-Switch position / state could easily be polled by any microcontroller, with matching state simulated by the "master" controller in the relay compartment
-Failsafe: Even if the microcontroller circuit fails you can still lock/unlock the door manually, or via keyless system.
-Failsafe: Inertia switch unlock trigger wire can be left in place
-Downside: Unless door MCUs are 12v constant, you'd lose central locking via key

[SS Spoiler]

I feel myself slipping further into the
Stone Age trying to figure out what these
guys are talking about!...

[Bob635]

With all the extra wires in the door, I have decided to use 2 of them to put speakers in the door. The speaker will go where the door handle is, because with the pull down strap, this handle is redundant.

I am considering a number of computer interfaces for the touch screen and bar displays. I like the Rasberry Pi, or a micro PC. However, this
is down the road, after the mechanical and body work is done.

I found this statement to be interesting.

-Failsafe: Inertia switch unlock trigger wire can be left in place

With all the problems with the lock/unlock switch and the corrosion of the copper surface after 40+ years does this work anymore?

I have disconnected and removed the heavy, corrosion prone, solenoids from my cars. And I never lock the doors while driving.
We have the wings a loft in Ryan's D. but not the linear actuators on the locks.

[FABombjoy]

-Failsafe: Inertia switch unlock trigger wire can be left in place

With all the problems with the lock/unlock switch and the corrosion of the copper surface after 40+ years does this work anymore?

Works great on my car. The parts involved are all interior mounted and the door lock switches aren't a factor. I think the door switch contacts are brass or we'd hear about them more often.

It works well enough to make me tear out my hair troubleshooting keyless entry. Turned out that I'd lifted the plunger while working on the fuel system. You cannot trigger central locking in that state.

[Bob635]

Well, the current Pandemic has made progress on the Iron Man Delorean a little difficult. The Delorean is in Illinois and we are sheltered in place in Las Vegas.

This has provided us with more time to plan Delorean Weekend and provide facilities. We now have a Pool Table in the quest house. Hopefully, this pandemic will be under control by then.
(Actually, the 6 month life span of the initial pandemic spread - ends in late August. This fact is based on science and not opinion. ) Anyway, after that date, the second wave will occur.
How bad it is going to be will depend on case tracing. Something the US is not equipped to do at this time.

Anyway, so what is happening on the Iron Man Delorean?
We are working on the electric power steering conversion. Tnis will include a new steering wheel with lots of buttons.
I am going to videotape this conversion and post it as another DIY video like the Full-Size Power window installation and the vented disc brake conversion.

I have also figured out the new rear end look. It will be a tail light that goes all the way across simillar to JZD proposed next gen Delorean.

I have also begun 3D printing new etruscans that the pull-down straps go through. I have radiused the edges so it does not cut the strap. It also has a larger opening that makes
installation of the strap a lot easier. If you want to add pull straps to your door panels and need these etruscans, send me an email.

I am planning to have an updated video for Delorean Weekend.

Pictures coming soon.

Bob