The Iron Man DeLorean

[dmcjohn]

UPLIFTED BODY
The front and rear spacers are installed to raise the fiberglass body 1" off the frame. The center and rear bolt holes have be drilled and fitted.
Will put in the final bolts once all the wires and pipes underneath are in place.

Why would you want the body to be raised 1 inch? Are you doing that to facilitate a deeper trunk in the front? I feel like I must be missing something here.

[dmcjohn]

I did the window switches in the door mod back in 2017 when I finished my electronic cluster install. I utilized relays in the doors to allow control of the passenger window from the drivers side.


I had these cut from a block of abs to replace the non functional door vents.
Attachment 59496

So, I'm curious. How did you mount your switches?

Now that is a very cool mod! Nicely done.

[Bob635]

Why would you want the body to be raised 1 inch? Are you doing that to facilitate a deeper trunk in the front? I feel like I must be missing something here.

John,

I have raised the body 1" higher on 2 of my other DeLoreans. I did this first on the 2015 Electric Delorean so we would have more space for batteries
in the front. We immediately realized this made it a lot easier to get in and out of the car, especially if you are older.
I also learned from this experience that it would be possible to put a rear tire in the bonnet in case of a flat tire if the bonnet was redesigned to
accommodate this. During this first conversion, it became obvious that there is so much more room available for storage, than the original body
design allowed.

We next raised up the 97 Delorean Time Machine in order to make it into a BTTF 3 car. Again, this made it a lot easier to get in an out of the car.

Now with the Iron Man Delorean, I am purposely raising the car up by 1" and redesigning the front bonnet storage space. This clearly allows a rear
tire to be put into the bonnet in case of a flat and it also increases the available storage volume by 50%. Note: the stock spare tire now fits vertically
so it take up very little space and allow for large items in the front bonnet.

This is a remarkable improvement in the usefulness of the car and ease of entry and exit.

[Bob635]

Now that is a very cool mod! Nicely done.

Nice work John. I assume you 3D printed the housings. What wires did you use to signal the passenger door?

[Bob635]

Can you provide more details on how you did the door mod.? I am very curious what wires you used.

Can you post a picture of the switches in the door. Did you use the D window switches?

[81dmc]

Can you provide more details on how you did the door mod.? I am very curious what wires you used.

Can you post a picture of the switches in the door. Did you use the D window switches?

I used the yellow wire and one of the existing motor wires as the 85/86 switching power to the passenger side. The other motor wires in each door were soldered directly to the power window feed wires that were in the console, and I used those as main feed to the relays in the door. For all grounds, I just used the solenoid ground wire.

I specifically used Euramtec window switches as they have a matching lock/unlock switch and are illuminated. I'll post a picture once I fish my car out of my cargo trailer. It's being stored in there while I tackle some other projects...

[81dmc]

Nice work Rodolfo.

FTFY

I assume you 3D printed the housings. What wires did you use to signal the passenger door?

I was initially planning on 3D printing the housings, but I was unsatisfied with the extrememly layered look of the 3d printers a few years ago. Instead, I sent the model to be cnc'd for a few hundred...

[Bob635]

I used the yellow wire and one of the existing motor wires as the 85/86 switching power to the passenger side. The other motor wires in each door were soldered directly to the power window feed wires that were in the console, and I used those as main feed to the relays in the door. For all grounds, I just used the solenoid ground wire.

I specifically used Euramtec window switches as they have a matching lock/unlock switch and are illuminated. I'll post a picture once I fish my car out of my cargo trailer. It's being stored in there while I tackle some other projects...

You used the "yellow" wire. Very interesting! Because this wire was not hooked up in my car. There was not even a wire in the plug socket for it to
connect to. This car is somewhat early ~ 3000. But I have never checked the continuity of a yellow wire on any of my later Ds.

I really need to source the Euramtec window switches. They sound great.

Bob

[81dmc]

You used the "yellow" wire. Very interesting! Because this wire was not hooked up in my car. There was not even a wire in the plug socket for it to
connect to. This car is somewhat early ~ 3000. But I have never checked the continuity of a yellow wire on any of my later Ds.

I really need to source the Euramtec window switches. They sound great.

Bob

My car is earlier than yours.

The yellow wire on mine terminated at the harness plug in the roof box. It was pinned, but there was no pin on the main harness side. So when I changed those connector blocks for deutsch dt sealed connectors, I just added a yellow jumper between the two doors, as well as a jumper between one set of the window motor wires.

[Bob635]

My car is earlier than yours.

The yellow wire on mine terminated at the harness plug in the roof box. It was pinned, but there was no pin on the main harness side. So when I changed those connector blocks for deutsch dt sealed connectors, I just added a yellow jumper between the two doors, as well as a jumper between one set of the window motor wires.

Rodolfo,

I had to do something like this on my car also. The yellow wires were not connected. I wonder if they are connected on any cars?
I have so many extra wires in the doors, trying to figure out what I can do with them.

I have 3D printed a storage box to go where the duct used to be in the door. Thinking of hinging it so that it rotates when the door is open
is stays vertical. This way stuff won't fall out of the box.