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Thread: Inner Door Seal

  1. #1
    Senior Member SoCalDMC12's Avatar
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    Inner Door Seal

    Many years ago (maybe 10) I bought some new inner door weather stripping from DMC, and am now getting ready to replace the driver's side seal. Still seems to hold out the leaks, but is looking a bit rough.

    The instructions in the workshop manual seem pretty straight forward, though it doesn't make any mention of the retaining clips. I've heard that this is a tough job, but it seems simple enough. Anyone who has done this have any input?

    - Geoff

  2. #2
    Delorean Guru
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    An easy job that requires almost no tools. Pull the old seal off. Trim any headliner materiel that goes "over the top" of the seam. Line the joint up by the door switches and install a piece of tubing into the cut ends. Get a large wooden mallet to bop the seal all the way on evenly. It's easier than using your hands to try to do it. You do not have to remove the metal clips, just put the seal over them. Be aware that the vendors sell different height seals to accommodate the early cars so get the right seal for your doors. Spray some silicone on the seals so they don't rip as the door rubs on them and clean the S/S of the doors on the inside so they are smooth and clean and slide easily against the rubber seals.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #3
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    ^ Agreed, except at least DMC's product offering already has the small tube attached in one end to facilitate joining the ends, like so:


    Also, I never heard about different products for early cars. That's a new one to me. I have a fairly early car, and I do know that DMC redesigned the seals in 2016 based on a factory change that never got implemented in 1982. They essentially found a later factory engineering drawing to address issues with the original design, and had that design made. Like so:


    I noticed the company stamp in the rubber, and that these have a shorter "wipe" and it was moved outward. Also, the drainage holes were moved to the outside. These are the ones that I installed last year and they work awesome. I highly recommend them.
    I applied clear silicone spray to the new seals and the door surfaces that it meets. Leaving the car outside in the sun for a few hours after installation helps the rubber settle a bit if necessary.
    Last edited by DMC-81; 07-31-2018 at 12:48 AM.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  4. #4
    Senior Member SoCalDMC12's Avatar
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    Thanks, guys. This will be my project tomorrow!

    I never knew about special seals for early cars, but I did hear about the new design that was released in 2016. I purchased my seals from DMC well before 2016... they've just been waiting to be put on. Really more of an aesthetic thing than anything else... we don't get much rain in Southern Cal, so the weather seals don't really get a work out. But the original ones are falling apart a bit near the windshield, so... time to change.
    Last edited by SoCalDMC12; 07-31-2018 at 01:13 AM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bullitt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    ^ Agreed, except at least DMC's product offering already has the small tube attached in one end to facilitate joining the ends, like so:


    Also, I never heard about different products for early cars. That's a new one to me. I have a fairly early car, and I do know that DMC redesigned the seals in 2016 based on a factory change that never got implemented in 1982. They essentially found a later factory engineering drawing to address issues with the original design, and had that design made. Like so:


    I noticed the company stamp in the rubber, and that these have a shorter "wipe" and it was moved outward. Also, the drainage holes were moved to the outside. These are the ones that I installed last year and they work awesome. I highly recommend them.
    I applied clear silicone spray to the new seals and the door surfaces that it meets. Leaving the car outside in the sun for a few hours after installation helps the rubber settle a bit if necessary.
    I would like to see a photo from the edge of that one, so I could really see the difference. I bought new from Deloreango, they lasted a week before they were torn apart. They were way to sticky, and the rubber would stick to itself so that it eventually tore off. Beeing so thin, it would not seal properly along the windshield. (On my car, VIN 1598 ) I should do as you did next time, and apply some silicone spray to it so it will not stick.
    Svein Apeland

    1981 DMC DeLorean DMC-12, VIN: 01598. Gas flap hood, manual transmission, black interior, wide stripe, galvanized frame, Spax and UK club exhaust.
    1973 Plymouth Road Runner
    x1979 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
    x1975 Chevrolet El Camino
    x1974 Plymouth Satellite Sebring
    x1966 Lincoln Continental
    x1983 Porsche 944
    x1982 Porsche 944

  6. #6
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
    I would like to see a photo from the edge of that one, so I could really see the difference. I bought new from Deloreango, they lasted a week before they were torn apart. They were way to sticky, and the rubber would stick to itself so that it eventually tore off. Beeing so thin, it would not seal properly along the windshield. (On my car, VIN 1598 ) I should do as you did next time, and apply some silicone spray to it so it will not stick.
    I don't have a photo of the cross section but here are some photos of it installed. I previously had issues with doors shutting hard and sticking on the seals. These new seals solved that problem and they are tight enough to seal from the wind and water. It was a night and day difference.








    To the OP, here are some other installation tips:
    1) Ensure the wipe (the bead along the seal) is oriented outward, away from the door. You can get it wrong, so watch out for that.
    2) Be liberal in your application of silicone and you may have to reapply
    3) Drop your window before you shut the door for the first time. That way, if the door sticks on the new seal, you can use the inside door release and leverage on the inside to open it.... Otherwise it's a good way to break you exterior door handle.
    4) If you are using previous version of DMC's seals, try to bias your tapping with the mallet a little bit to the outside of the seal ( i.e. away from the door).
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  7. #7
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
    I would like to see a photo from the edge of that one, so I could really see the difference........
    Here is an end-on photo I took of a recent (current design) DMCH door seal before installation. It is next to the old door seal I removed, one that I think was the older DMCH style. That one lasted about 10 years.

    The newer/current DMCH seal (on left) has a shorter bulb lip and carries more of the stiff base material into the bulb section than the other one did. Also has a more complex set of flutes where it grips the door flange.

    Installed it successfully on our early-VIN D last Fall and did not use any clips.

    It works just fine.

    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  8. #8
    Senior Member Bullitt's Avatar
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    Thanks! Looks good. Ill buy the new DMCH version.

    Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk
    Svein Apeland

    1981 DMC DeLorean DMC-12, VIN: 01598. Gas flap hood, manual transmission, black interior, wide stripe, galvanized frame, Spax and UK club exhaust.
    1973 Plymouth Road Runner
    x1979 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
    x1975 Chevrolet El Camino
    x1974 Plymouth Satellite Sebring
    x1966 Lincoln Continental
    x1983 Porsche 944
    x1982 Porsche 944

  9. #9
    Senior Member SoCalDMC12's Avatar
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    Yup... pretty straight forward job. Thanks for the tips. The rubber mallet was definitely helpful; trying to seat the seal by hand all the way around would have been torture.

    A couple of notes:
    - The replacement seal was about an inch too long, so I had to trim a bit off the end. Now, there's about an 1/8" gap between the ends. In a few days, after I'm sure the new seal is settled, I'll hit the joint with a bead of silicone to finish off the job.
    - The power door locks aren't working correctly now... driver's door won't unlatch when the key is turned from the passenger side. I'm guessing that the striker pin now needs to be adjusted. (It was a little sensitive even prior to the new seal being installed.) I'm hoping that after a few days the new seal may be seated a bit more snuggly and the alignment issue will go away. Otherwise, I've got one more job to do! (If I remember correctly, adjusting the pin isn't a big deal.)

    Thanks for the tips!

    - Geoff

  10. #10
    Delorean Guru
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    Both latches must achieve 2nd locking position on both doors for the door locks to work. It may take an adjustment of the striker pins or just letting the seals "take a set". Often the striker pins are adjusted to compensate for old, tired door seals so when you put new ones on they must be readjusted. I like to cut the ends just a tad longer and then push the ends together so they stay tight. Use a touch of black silicone and you can hide the seam.
    David Teitelbaum

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