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Thread: Coil & Bulkhead Connections

  1. #11
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hot and bloody humid Houston

    Posts:    1,481

    My VIN:    2329

    What a PITA! I have my bus connected from the front radiator bracket, through the fender, out the firewall by the pedals, under the radio, down the console and off to the rear wall. That connection behind the driver side AC duct is tough to get to. Dealing with the windshield washer reservoir area is tough too.... lots of ground wires tied in now though. Lots of my after market additions cleaned up and tied in too. Much cleaner and re-bundled. My bulkhead box has been painted with truck bed paint and will be nice and unobtrusive. I went with a weather Pak 22 connection and I crimped my leads today. Tomorrow I hope to mount the box and get the electrics largely squared away. I've deliberately separated the 'car' stuff from the engine, EFI stuff by putting the EFI behind the driver. Makes life easier.

    My shifter panel will have the stock clock but I'm replacing the rheostat with my toggle that locks/unlocks/pops my doors. I'm also going to fabricate a switch plate to fit in the stock position by that will use aviator protected toggles instead of the big, obtrusive paddles. I need to move my wings aloft module to a more convenient mounting location too. I may replace my radio with a bluetooth one since my current Ipod may not last too much longer given its age.

    It's always a case of 'while I'm in there'. This started as just carpets and rear bulkhead boards (replicated and ready to be mounted). I couldn't bring myself to totally recreating the parcel shelf area since I then wouldn't be able to buy replacement carpets to fit.
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
    Help us spread the word! @twobrewdogs on Twitter, twobrewdogs on Facebook.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,135

    My VIN:    03572

    I moved my door lock unit to the left side of the metal relay plate. You can't even see it there.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #13
    '82 T3 Turbo FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    707

    My VIN:    10270

    I feel like I saw an improvement just by connecting the bulkhead bolt directly to the battery.

    The convoluted OEM path just seems like a sketchy setup: battery -> trailing arm bolt plate -> frame -> wire on other part of frame -> bulkhead bolt
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  4. #14
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hot and bloody humid Houston

    Posts:    1,481

    My VIN:    2329

    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    I feel like I saw an improvement just by connecting the bulkhead bolt directly to the battery.

    The convoluted OEM path just seems like a sketchy setup: battery -> trailing arm bolt plate -> frame -> wire on other part of frame -> bulkhead bolt

    I'm a believer in ground path redundancy. While I've weeded out a few of the stragglers from the wiring harness if I replaced them with direct connections to the new bus, I'm keeping the long run grounds too. I also make sure that all major metal parts are grounded to each other, bulkhead bolts to major metal, etc... A true spiderweb of interconnections so that any point of failure doesn't give me any electrical issues.
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
    Help us spread the word! @twobrewdogs on Twitter, twobrewdogs on Facebook.

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