You'll also need the new "screw in pipe" for that screw-in Ostat to work. Hopefully, you ordered one of those as well.Originally Posted by DaraSue
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
You'll also need the new "screw in pipe" for that screw-in Ostat to work. Hopefully, you ordered one of those as well.
Location: The LC
Posts: 1,057
My VIN: 10907
Yep! I got the expedited shipping so hopefully I get it by my day off next week. I had issues with the current one leaking when we changed it so I figured if all else fails I'll just change the whole pipe.
Location: Mebane, NC
Posts: 346
My VIN: 06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a
It comes together if you order the pipe.
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 148
My VIN: 4675, 4190, 3114 and others
Club(s): (DMA) (DMWC) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Nevada is just like CA. Still tests cars all the way back to 1967! Just stupid and a waste of money. Makes political jobs and appoints.
It does nothing to improve air quality. This was proven in EPA research years ago. The impact of emission testing programs was less the 1% improvement. So a number of states ended testing for older cars. But still have the political
benefits from OBD II.
It is another case of people IGNORING the SCIENTIFIC FACTS for political gain and power. Gee, just like ignoring the science of Climate Change.
Bob
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 237
My VIN: 10353
Just picked up my car here in San Diego for its SMOG today. Passed, whew.
The mechanic was able to make a few adjustments to get it tuned just right. I did give up on trying to get my O2 sensor out and had him do it since he had a lift. Ended up having to get the bung rewelded since it broke getting the old one out. But the car almost feels like it has more power now with the new sensor!
Hopefully in two years CA will get rid of the testing requirements for our cars, ya right....
Location: The LC
Posts: 1,057
My VIN: 10907
Well, I think I figured put why the new otterstat crapped out...20180929_113630.jpg
The pipe wasn't looking too great. 20180929_122744.jpg It doesn't really show in this pic but there was some deformation inside the opening so I'm thinking that's where it was leaking when we replaced it.
What are the chances that this rust is localized to just this pipe? Probably time for another coolant flush?
Location: Mebane, NC
Posts: 346
My VIN: 06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a
I would flush the system good. The pipe is aluminum so it shouldn't rust.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The aluminum pipes don't rust but they do develop pinholes. If you see that kind of gunk inside you have to figure it is all over the system. Flush each component separately. They sell stuff you can run in the system to break down the gunk and then flush you it out. The best way to flush is to use the cleaner and then do each thing by itself (the rad, the motor, the heater) backflush (reverse the flow). Changing the direction helps to get all of the gunk out. Best to temporally remove the thermostat so it doesn't get plugged up by all of the junk. If the gunk is like a jelly it is very old anti-freeze that was never flushed.
David Teitelbaum
Location: The LC
Posts: 1,057
My VIN: 10907
I've heard some people run a tab of dish detergent through their coolant system before flushing, has anybody tried this? What kind of detergent?
Posts: 576
You can run Cascade dishwasher gel, NOT DISH DETERGENT, through it. It will clean a lot better than Prestone Cooling System flush. Use only 2 oz., go drive for an hour and then drain as soon as its cool enough.
Where I feel it beats the cooling system flush is it seems to do a great job suspending all of the trash within the liquid. So don’t delay draining it because you want to reduce the possibility that the trash will settle out.
It will not harm the plastic/rubber components since these materials are typically used in dishwashers.
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