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Thread: Screw extraction help needed

  1. #1
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

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    Screw extraction help needed

    I broke 2 bolts on the engine and I tried a screw extractor but it broke off. Now I need some serious help. I'm in Pell City AL.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2014

    Location:  Alexandria, VA

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    Could you specify which ones? Pictures would help too.

  3. #3
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

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    Bottom of water pump and the dreaded bolt on the pain of agony. The water pump is the one I broke the extractor in. I've got a nut threaded on the pipe bolt. My intention is to weld the nut on and hopefully have the heat break it free. I've been hoping to get my coworker to come weld it for me but he hasn't had time.
    https://i.imgur.com/iUkd5Zu.jpg

    I found an article saying to dremel out the extractor so I've been doing that. I need to buy more grinding bits but it's mostly gone at this point. https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-you-r...fro-1746998630

  4. #4
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
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    Broken extractor has been extracted

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    My VIN:    03572

    A screw extractor is really only good if you broke the bolt when you over tightened it. Never seems to work with a corroded bolt that broke trying to remove it.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #6
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    $.02

    I looks like you might have better results with the next size up extractor. Trick is to get one large enough that it doesn't break but small enough that it doesn't spread the remaining part of the bolt making it bite in and crack/break off the ear on the block...

    Options:
    If the threads are bad:
    -Tap to the next size and enlarge the pump's hole.
    -Weld the hole up and re-tap.
    -Use a fully threaded bolt from behind (w/ HD Loctite), and a nut (w/o Loctite). (Might work well with a cracked or broken ear using HT Epoxy, depending on if there is enough left for a washered bolt head to pull against...relatively little stress.)

  7. #7
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

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    My VIN:    10270

    2 of 3 of my water pump bolts are helicoiled. I can vouch for that as a working option.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  8. #8
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    +1!

  9. #9
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips guy. Right now I got it fully drilled out to under 1/4". Once I get some short bits, I'll drill it to 6mm and try to chase the left over bits out with the m7 tap. If that doesn't work I already have a helicoil kit ready.

  10. #10
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
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    Location:  Happy Valley, OR

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    I'm late to the game here but it might be useful to others who stumble across this thread later.
    I used a reverse drill bit - spins counterclockwise so its going in the direction of extraction. I started small and worked my way up to a size big enough for my screw extractor to get a good bite on the bolt.

    Cheers
    Steve
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

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