Fuse panel relay upgrade install question

[David T]

Verify each fuse is the correct size in each location. Examine each fuse for any signs of melting or overheating. Make sure as you reinstall fuses and relays that none of the connectors "back out" and fail to make good contact. Each connector should be "springy" and grip the terminals tightly. Keep some extra fuses handy and leave the cover off the fuseblock. Look for any sign of rodent damage or droppings. Add a 10 amp in-line fuse to the big red wire going to the door lock module.

[Dontilgon]

I crimped new terminals on the burnt wires above. I don’t remember which side of the breaker these two wires came out of either battery or AUX side. I did the 12 V test has in the instructions but both do not read 12 V. According to the instructions one of them should read 12 V and that should go onto the battery side of the breaker. My battery is connected and reading 12.2 V. Any ideas thanks

Forgot to mention it’s the 40 amp relay for the black/orange and orange/brown wire I’m stuck at

[DMC5180]

Forgot to mention it’s the 40 amp relay for the black/orange and orange/brown wire I’m stuck at

It’s a 40 amp thermal trip circuit breaker, not a relay. It is located electrically, between the cool Fan relay and the blue fan fail module socket. You will not see 12v on either wire unless the Fan relay has been triggered to turn the radiator fans on. You can force command the fan relay on by turning the Key to Run and switching the A/C mode switch to Max or norm. If the A/C system has sufficient charge you will hear the Compressor clutch “click”. That same feed circuit with switch the Fan relay ON. Then you can test for 12V on the Brown/Orange wire. Some cars have Brown/orange for both wires, mine did. Other are like yours with brown/ orange and black/orange. IIRC, brown/ orange is from the Fan relay to the BAT side of the 40 amp breaker. Black/orange is ACC side of breaker to the blue fan fail module socket.


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[Dontilgon]

It’s a 40 amp thermal trip circuit breaker, not a relay. It is located electrically, between the cool Fan relay and the blue fan fail module socket. You will not see 12v on either wire unless the Fan relay has been triggered to turn the radiator fans on. You can force command the fan relay on by turning the Key to Run and switching the A/C mode switch to Max or norm. If the A/C system has sufficient charge you will hear the Compressor clutch “click”. That same feed circuit with switch the Fan relay ON. Then you can test for 12V on the Brown/Orange wire. Some cars have Brown/orange for both wires, mine did. Other are like yours with brown/ orange and black/orange. IIRC, brown/ orange is from the Fan relay to the BAT side of the 40 amp breaker. Black/orange is ACC side of breaker to the blue fan fail module socket.


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Okay, got it BAT is brown/orange. I was just following the instructions provided. So in the process of changing the antenna I noticed this disconnected. There’s no way this just came loose. The female terminal seems to be coming out of number 9 on the black box. What is this ? Thanks Joe

[DMC5180]

The connector goes here:



It is part of the Idle micro-switch circuit.


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[Dontilgon]

Thanks again , any reason PO disconnected ?

[DMC5180]

Thanks again , any reason PO disconnected ?

Not that I can think of. Dave (BITSYNCMASTR) understands that circuit better than I do. I will defer to him to explain it, if he ops to chime in here. It’s possible that it just got snagged and pulled out while other things were disturbed in the area.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

That connection goes to a diode in the harness which drives the idle ECU a signal from the idle switch. I know of no reason anyone would disconnect that connection. With my idle ECU you remove the diode and connect the two wires (if you remove the idle switch). Not sure what an open circuit on the OEM idle ECU would do (I don't think it changes much). The idle switch would still be switching the advance solenoid on and off even with that connection disconnected.