Side window pulling away from the body.

[L3V3L1]

Hi
anyone know how to get this window back into place? thanks

[dn010]

You’ll probably have to remove it and then urethane it back into place again.

[DMC-81]

You’ll probably have to remove it and then urethane it back into place again.

+1

I needed to reattach the same right window during my restoration as it separated at the bottom. I did this when I had the quarter panels removed to paint the pontoons which made it easier to work with, but I don't know if that necessary. Others with experience can chime in on this:


1. In any case, the first step is to remove the window completely:


2. Clean up the window and the quarter panel. I completely removed any trace of urethane from the window and carefully scraped it clean with a new razor blade. Then I removed excess urethane from the quarter panel leaving a thin skim.. if that. Apparently new urethane will stick to old. I just ensured it was very clean ( carb cleaner worked for me on this. Also, it is advisable to leave the yellow primer on the SS which allows the urethane to adhere better.:


3. Use spacers ( 106612 ) to get the gap right. I used 3 on the top channel, 3 on the bottom, and 2 on the front side:


4. Apply new urethane / 3M Window Weld:


5. Reinstall the window:


6. Clean up the excess from the exterior side (and stop for an early car) or continue to press in/apply the rubber strip ( 110211 ). I don't have this strip so maybe someone who has done one can add any extra steps for it.:


Let it set for the recommended time. I hired a professional to do steps 4-6.

[dn010]

Dana has excellent advice above.

This may be too much for the regular owner to handle themselves but here are a few things to add if you actually are doing this yourself - if you don't see any trace of primer on your stainless or you don't have a thin layer of urethane on it, use urethane primer! Maybe my luck has been terrible in the past but after many instances of adhesion issues between urethane and glass and metal etc I always use the primer now with the exception of when I did the divider channels on the fixed glass. I've never had a problem using the primer. I also don't have the strip on 5003 but using it likely means you'll likely be using a lot more urethane than without it. Get an air caulk gun, they're cheap and you can lay a beautiful bead with it with the added bonus of saving your hands the pain of pumping a manual gun. Drying times can be confusing but if you lay a thick bead plan on having it sit for days; thin cures pretty quickly.

[L3V3L1]

Thanks for the tips. I think Im gonna go with a pro. You think a Safelite repair guy would be up to it? Guess Ill order the spacers now.
Jason

[DMC-81]

Thanks for the tips. I think Im gonna go with a pro. You think a Safelite repair guy would be up to it? Guess Ill order the spacers now.
Jason

You are welcome Jason, (and thanks Dan). I think I called Safelight and other chain shops but they wouldn't touch it without replacing the glass, because of "liability with the old glass breaking"... understandable in our litigious society, but ridulous. As with other tasks on the car, I called around until I found an independent, experienced, well reviewed pro who would do it. I think he charged me $80 for the job and came to my house to do it..well worth the cost.

One thing about handling urethane, I believe the Pros heat it first, and as Dan mentioned, use a special, sturdy (electric) caulk gun.

[AZ-D]

Thanks for the tips. I think Im gonna go with a pro. You think a Safelite repair guy would be up to it? Guess Ill order the spacers now.
Jason

If you were in Phoenix, I'd do it on the side for you. Would take 10 minutes at most. Hire a pro to do it though. You could accomplish it yourself and you can buy urethane at auto parts stores, but the biggest thing is running a clean bead in a space that small takes a lot of practice or it turns into a messy nightmare real fast.


I am surprised they used urethane for those and not some form of butyl considering the year.