Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Door launcher relay question

  1. #1
    Not really banned Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    3,401

    Door launcher relay question

    In a few days I am going to redo my switch row. I'm going to put an old window switch on a dummy switch location to pop the passenger door. I often find myself waiting on my wife in the car and I would like to just pop her door alone (my system is set to launch either my door or both doors at once, but not to launch just the pass door). I think if I just set up a dead short of two relay pins that should trigger it right? If so does anyone know off the top of their head which 2 pins? (87 and 87a for example).

    If this works I will have to make a point to lock the doors while driving from now on, which is something I should be doing anyway but rarely do.

    On the other dummy slot I will have a on/off switch to control my ambient lighting.
    Last edited by Michael; 10-30-2018 at 07:57 PM.

  2. #2
    Formally hmm252000
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Hillsboro, OR

    Posts:    450

    My VIN:    4099

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    I believe it's pins 30 and 87. One should be going to a 12v positive and another to the wiring that runs to the solenoid in the door. Normally you don't want to just short these two pins with a small switch as that puts the full load on a switch. However, the window switches are designed for high current and compared to the window motors, will have a very easy time handling the solenoid. If you do this correctly, it shouldn't impact your driver side door launching.

    I recommend getting a Mattaligner or cover for those switches. As you noted, accidentally launching the door while driving is very bad and a safety risk. Not to mention the stress that puts on the door! Getting in the habit of locking the doors when starting the car is a wise idea as well.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    551

    Even without a switch, just with remote - I recommend to block the door launchers when the ignition is on.

    This should be integrated in the remote kit, I suggested that >10 years ago.

  4. #4
    Not really banned Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    3,401

    Thanks for the help everyone!

    I agree with the door lock thoughts. It might make a good project for someone handy with electronics to design a kit that locks/unlocks doors with the ignition or shifter like many modern cars have.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,126

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    Thanks for the help everyone!

    I agree with the door lock thoughts. It might make a good project for someone handy with electronics to design a kit that locks/unlocks doors with the ignition or shifter like many modern cars have.
    I just disabled that function in my new 2018. I just think it will wear out the linkage do it that many times a day.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2016

    Location:  San Diego, CA

    Posts:    163

    My VIN:    10353

    Someone obviously didn't attend cotillion as a young man since he should get out of the car to open m'lady's door!

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Location:  Virginia

    Posts:    65

    My VIN:    1623

    I need to redo my switches as well. Iíve adjusted them numerous times but they still shift and eventually get stuck. So annoying.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Las Vegas

    Posts:    578

    My VIN:    6720

    Club(s):   (AZ-D) (LVDG)

    Quote Originally Posted by CFI View Post
    I need to redo my switches as well. Iíve adjusted them numerous times but they still shift and eventually get stuck. So annoying.
    A mattaligner is incredible. It brings the switches to perfect, stable alignment, and isnít a flimsy peice of garbage. With the guard at the aft side of the switches to help prevent inadvertant activation, itís great. There is a small rubber trim peice (black and grey both included) to cover the edge of that guard for comfort.
    It is a great upgrade. I wouldnít say *essential*, but for the price it costs and the degree it enhances the car, itís a no brainer. Get one.
    5 speed, grooved hood, grey interior (Nov '81)
    Spax Shocks, DCUK springs, Delorean.eu LCA brackets, DPNW Poly swaybar bushings, DMCMW shock tower bar, Deloreana.com convex mirrors, DPNW Toby Tabs, DPI cat-less exhaust, C4 Corvette third brake light, PJ Grady tail light boards, Bitsyncmaster relays

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Location:  Virginia

    Posts:    65

    My VIN:    1623

    Quote Originally Posted by jackb View Post
    A mattaligner is incredible. It brings the switches to perfect, stable alignment, and isnít a flimsy peice of garbage. With the guard at the aft side of the switches to help prevent inadvertant activation, itís great. There is a small rubber trim peice (black and grey both included) to cover the edge of that guard for comfort.
    It is a great upgrade. I wouldnít say *essential*, but for the price it costs and the degree it enhances the car, itís a no brainer. Get one.
    Thanks. I was looking at a Mattaligner today. Looks like a great product.

  10. #10
    Not really banned Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    3,401

    Quote Originally Posted by CFI View Post
    I need to redo my switches as well. Iíve adjusted them numerous times but they still shift and eventually get stuck. So annoying.
    If the switches are stuck then it is most likely due to the center "armrest" portion of the console has collapsed. This happens as people use it as a brace to get in and out. I had an issue with my switches sticking (especially the larger led window switches) and I solved it by placing stiff closed cell foam under the console next to the ashtray. This wedges between the console and underbody and raises the console back to a factory height and frees up and sticking switches.
    The Mattaligner has nothing but positive reviews but I don't know if it address that issue. I was under the impression it restored the broken down switch cutouts to align the switches all nice and neat. It may fix both issues?

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •