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Thread: Split orange fuel hose

  1. #1
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,579

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    Split orange fuel hose

    One of my orange fuel hoses behind the A/C accumulator finally split where it meets the hard line. What are people using to replace this? Is there a brand/SKU for replacement or are the DMCH ones the only option? Diameter?

    Is this all done through the opening in the trunk? I can't really see how it could be done from the wheel well with the accumulator in the way.

    Thanks.


    EDIT: Answered my own question when I removed the panel..... pic enclosed. I may just take them to NAPA and get a matching size.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by Spittybug; 11-01-2018 at 04:41 PM.
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  2. #2
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,147

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Mine did the same. All done through the opening in the trunk. I am using the DMCH supplied rubber hoses and clamps from the new fuel pump kit.
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880

  3. #3
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Split orange fuel hose

    I had a orange line failure in September at the fuel pump end.

    Gates barracade fuel injection hose.
    SAE 30J14R2. It’s about $5 a foot at NAPA or your favorite AP store.

    I bought 5/16, but for insurance I also got some 1/4” plus the correct clamps. It turned out the 1/4 fit best. I also wiped a light film of engine oil on the fitting barbs. It pushed on nicely and was resistant to pulling off. The 5/16 was too loose for my liking. I did not want to rely solely on the clamp to keep it tight.




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    Last edited by DMC5180; 11-01-2018 at 07:51 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #4
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,168

    My VIN:    10270

    5/16" nylon fuel tubing fits the stock barbs. You'd have to remove the barbed fittings from the car to press it on, but it will be more reliable than rubber EFI hose.

    Dorman 800-074 on the fuel pump fitting:
    Nylon-Kjet.jpg
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  5. #5
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,579

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    In need of pump sealing boot now...

    I have my new hose and when I went to put it on I realized that the rubber nipple in the pump sealing boot that the return line goes through was ripped off. Of course DMCH is out of stock on these. My fuel pump works fine and I have no reason to replace it at this time, so I'm looking for just a boot. I'm not sure it's a big deal if that nipple isn't in place or not, the hose line still goes down into the tank. I'm guessing that I might get some sloshing though and I wouldn't want that to come out of the hole..... or maybe vapors.... There is still the rubber cap over all of it so I'm not too worried about vapor. I don't think I want the top of the pump or its wires wet with fuel though.... time to see if I can zip tie it or otherwise seal it.

    Just thought I'd check to see if anyone has an old boot from when the perhaps upgraded to the new fuel pump?

    Thanks.
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  6. #6
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    2,108

    My VIN:    5003 Never placed Concourse

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Try giving Rob Grady a call. FWIW if you do find some used, it's good to get one as a spare eventually. I've had them turn to gel, I've had DAP's boot crack into a million pieces shortly after install. This usually happens at the most inconvenient times. I've had my share of trouble with the rubber (ever since ethanol is in the fuel!) but I don't want to replace the original setup, it has worked issue free for me for the past 16 years, aside from that damn boot and the occasional pump replacement.
    -----Dan B.

  7. #7
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,579

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    I'm on the fence... if the hoses were in this condition and the boot was shot, how much longer does my pump have left in it? I've had the car 12 years and never replaced it. I've been reading several threads on peoples' opinions on it and with the exception of rubber hose related issues, it seems to be good. Not crazy about the price, but I can claw back some of that with the core parts they want to buy back. My sender is only a couple of years old, so maybe I'll sell that too.
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  8. #8
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,579

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    I just installed the new fuel pump assembly. Fits fine and I didn't seem to have the cover panel closure issues that others have had. I do have an issue with the fuel sender though; full tank and it is only reading 1/2. Never had appreciable misreadings before. I don't know if it is moving or not, I'll have to wait and see. I have a note into DMCH to ask them what I should check, but I thought I'd ask here too. I'm wondering if the float arm somehow came off as I was installing it into the tank....
    It's tight quarters working on the gas tank so I'm not relishing the thought of opening back up again.
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Location:  Northwest Florida

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    My VIN:    Midproduction

    Make sure the float arm is facing the center of the tank. If it's facing the side or front it might jam against the side wall close to halfway up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    I just installed the new fuel pump assembly. Fits fine and I didn't seem to have the cover panel closure issues that others have had. I do have an issue with the fuel sender though; full tank and it is only reading 1/2. Never had appreciable misreadings before. I don't know if it is moving or not, I'll have to wait and see. I have a note into DMCH to ask them what I should check, but I thought I'd ask here too. I'm wondering if the float arm somehow came off as I was installing it into the tank....
    It's tight quarters working on the gas tank so I'm not relishing the thought of opening back up again.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Run the fuel level down enough so that you can remove the cap on the old sender location and look inside with an inspection mirror and flashlight.


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    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

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