Fuel delivery issue - Only new injectors not firing

[RobotMartian]

Thanks for all of the help so far. As an update, and to answer some of the questions asked, the swapped distributor has identical numbers to the one I removed, and the injectors are new numbers correct units.

I've had the car for around 11 years now and when I first purchased it everything from the VoD up was in boxes in the cabin. I put a whole new fuel system in it at that time, rebuilt it, and it ran great for years. It sat for 9 months a couple of years ago, and I'm guessing that's when the whole thing started.

I have since the last post; verified that the new fuel pump is pumping the correct direction. I couldn't get the fuel filter to seal properly after swapping it out, so I gave up and moved it to the engine bay. Now I can watch it leak more comfortably. I still can not get the main line from the filter to the distributor to stop leaking. I've installed new crush washers, put my old fuel line back on, and tried new banjo bolts. Both ends keep leaking. Is there something obvious I might be missing here? I assume that the slow drip (1 drip/2 sec) leak will keep the pressure from getting high enough to fire the injectors? Right now only two are going.

[David T]

You can't run the fuel system and the motor if you have any fuel leaks. It is just dangerous. Use new crush washers, make sure you aren't missing any and if you have to, use teflon tape. It can be difficult to get the fittings around the fuel filter to stop leaking.

[RobotMartian]

Oh, I would never intentionally run the engine with a fuel leak. I should have clarified that I'm jumping the RPM relay and doing the Mason jar test. It's the line from the top of the filter so I can't tape it. If I attempted to resurface the banjo fittings, what would be the best way to do it?

Hopefully the pressure gauge will arrive soon and that'll tell me more on the other issue.

[DMC-81]

Oh, I would never intentionally run the engine with a fuel leak. I should have clarified that I'm jumping the RPM relay and doing the Mason jar test. It's the line from the top of the filter so I can't tape it. If I attempted to resurface the banjo fittings, what would be the best way to do it?

Hopefully the pressure gauge will arrive soon and that'll tell me more on the other issue.

Is the leak point the area around the 12 mm hollow bolt in the banjo fitting?

I had some experience with this. Mine had a thicker section at the top:


When I took it off there was a 12mm copper washer on the bottom as normal, and a larger 13mm washer at the top because this apparently this earlier design has a larger upper section. I couldn't initially find the 13mm washer, but both vendors confirmed that there shouldn't be a need to use a washer on the top of the bolt... Just the bottom.
I omitted the top washer and it sealed fine, but I also procured 13 mm washers just in case.

Anyway let us know what version you have. If the fitting is dirty, I cleaned it up with carb cleaner and 1000 grit sandpaper.