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Thread: Looking for a GOOD website for aftermarket wheels

  1. #11
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    Luke and Patrick are the only two guys you need to talk to. They know this topic inside and out!
    Well, Luke, I think you have hands down proven that point! Big Thanks to you for such as thorough answer! (And lots of thanks to Patrick as well!).

    Next up I have some soul searching to do: Do I want to go a little 80s/90s retro with 16"/17" stagger (I'm thinking BBS Compomotive or similar) or more like the 2010s with 17"/18"? Hmm...
    VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
    Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
    http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com

  2. #12
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    I like the idea of 16/18 stagger. I think 18" looks good on the back but sometimes 17" looks a bit too much for the front. The DMCH wheels the 17" front looks too much, but on Patrick's it doesn't. I'm not sure why if they're both 17".

    Running a 16" front with maybe a 50 series tire and 18" rear with probably a 30 or 35 series you could keep the overall diameter not too far off from stock. Willtheyfit is perfect for working that out. I think the car could stand a slightly larger overall diameter tire on the front as stock can look a little small from certain angles. The accentuated stagger might look good, and the varied sidewall profile should stop it from looking like the front wheels are way smaller than the rear, even though they probably are.
    I bet there's even less selection of wheels in 16" than 17" though.

  3. #13
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robmac123 View Post
    I bet there's even less selection of wheels in 16" than 17" though.
    There is a decent selection in 16 still but you do see a lot of wheels in only 17/18 or larger. There seems to be enough demand for wheels in smaller cars (with 4x100) that options are still open.

    I chose 16 / 17 as Michigan roads are widely varied and I wanted to preserve some sidewall. My daily car has 18s BUT it has engineered chassis dampening which makes a huge difference. So much so that I'd love to test some passive dampening devices to try and calm down the feedback/oscillations without compromising handling.

    ANOTHER option if you find wheels that aren't wide enough is to have them widened by a wheel specialist.

    Wheels are one of those areas where most problems are solvable with a big shovel of cash
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  4. #14
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    I agree, a big enough shovel will solve most wheel problems :-)

  5. #15
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    A couple more questions:
    1) I have played around with the various options on willtheyfit.com. If the concern is tire rub up against the fender lip (i.e. top left corner in the willtheyfit animation) and assuming a fixed offset - it appears that only choice of tire width matters. Rim width does not seem to have an effect. Would you agree?
    2) I have the wider, ventilated brake rotors in the front. Any way to check that fitment? Back spacing I guess...?

    Also, two websites I like:
    nlmotoring.com
    performanceplustire.com
    The latter has a "staggered wheel" option where you can check what wheels and tires are available in combinations of diameters, like 16/17 or 17/18. Very helpful.

    Thanks,
    VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
    Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
    http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com

  6. #16
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    1. That's kinda right in theory, but wouldn't really be the case in reality. Just say you had a 7" wheel with a 205 wide tire and you went with a 2" wider wheel and the same width tire. Theoretically it would end up no closer to the fender, as the tire is no wider and the offset unchanged, but the tire would look ridiculously stretched and probably would in reality be a little closer to the fender as the sidewall would be angled outwards. Willtheyfit is just saying that mathematically the tire is no wider so it will be no closer to the fender. Assuming the offset stays the same (the centerline of the wheel stays the same distance from the hub mounting face) and you increase the wheel width then you add 1/2 the total additional width to each side of the wheel making it closer to the wheel arch and the frame. You'd probably not want to run the same width tire on a significantly wider/narrower wheel anyway. There's some overlap in compatible tire and wheel widths, so maybe a 205 wide tire would be safe on a 7" and an 8" wheel (made up example) but they will look a little different. I found a few different charts on google that have a min, max and ideal width for any given wheel vs tire.
    You could add a wider wheel and compensate by adjusting the offset so that the additional width is all on the inside of the wheel (no closer to the fender) but that assumes you have clearance against the frame/steering components and of course that you can buy the wheels that offset.
    I stand to be corrected, but that's how I picture it.

    2. The braking surface of the disc is wider to accommodate the venting, but I'm not sure if the thickness where it mounts to the hub face is any different. It's the mounting surface thickness that could mess with your wheel offset.
    The wider disc would mean a wider caliper, which could potentially foul on a wheel but I wouldn't see that as all that likely unless you have a really unusual wheel design or maybe a huge negative offset.
    I'd try and find out how thick your vented rotors are at the hub face vs stock, then you could factor that in and andust the offset if it's significant. I wouldn't imagine it would be more than a few mm different but I haven't seen the discs you're using.


    If you start narrowing down your choices you might find the Wheels-On app useful. There's are a decent selection of aftermarket wheels in the app that you can set against a side view of a car to mock them up, but you can also clip pictures of wheels from google or wherever and size them to whatever you like, staggered front/rear etc. You need to find a good flat side on pic of a Delorean and also the wheels you're thinking of. It's harder than it sounds as most pics have some angle or perspective to them. If you can use photoshop you might find it a bit low-tech but it worked for me as a quick way to mock up many different wheels just to see how they looked. It takes seconds once you find a pic of the wheels your mocking up on google.
    Here's an example:
    IMG_0446.jpg
    Last edited by Robmac123; 12-01-2018 at 05:00 PM.

  7. #17
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik View Post
    2) I have the wider, ventilated brake rotors in the front. Any way to check that fitment? Back spacing I guess...?
    No affect on wheels. If it fits in a 14" it'll fit in anything else larger. Stud position relative to body center is set by the bearing thickness & spindle hardware stack-up.

    And Robmac123 is right on. Tire width plays a bigger factor than wheel width. Buying larger wheels should mean that you're buying the ability to put better tires on, so I would stick close to stock sizes since most people don't really have a traction problem. I guess you can put 265s on the rear if you want an extra huge helping of understeer.

    You have room for the wheel to be a little off of centerline too, things aren't quite that high tolerance. If my math is right, Patrick's XXRs are 12.3mm closer to the rear quarter. Mine are 7.3mm. He needed to roll the q/p lips but I didn't. But I don't think I would need to even with another 5mm. Suspension and build consistency seem to come more in to play here. If you have to roll them, you only need to do a little at the top. Easy peasy with no paint!
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  8. #18
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  9. #19
    Senior Member tommyrich's Avatar
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    Just offering my experience...

    I went through an extensive search for new wheels as well about a year ago. I ended up with Maxxim Maze wheels. I am happy with them (although, as with all aftermarket wheels, opinions may vary). I went with
    17/7s on the front - (Summit Racing MXW MZ77X0440M)
    18/7.5s on the rear - (Summit Racing MXW MZ87D0445M)

    Used Firestone Firehawk indy 500 summer tires (great in the warm weather, slippery when cold)
    205/40-R17
    235/45-R18

    Some of the things that influenced my choice:
    Wanted Staggered wheels
    Wanted larger wheels
    Wanted something that was available (very few choices in our size/lug pattern these days)


    Some Notes:
    Built 1.25" spacer for rear.
    There is a slight (1mm?) difference in hub diameter (needed to fill the gap)
    My car is lowered, fronts rub ever-so-sligtly on the front (noticed slight wear on inner fender edging).
    The car rides a little stiffer, but handles better (as expected).

    Good luck in your quest (I recall my obsession)!
    Tom


    20180714_160609.jpg20171117_143948.jpg

  10. #20
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    I found a set of adaptor rings that get you from the more standard 73.1 to the Delorean 72.1. They’re pretty flimsy, being so thin and are made of plastic. Nevertheless they’d work fine and just stop any issues with the wheel possibly ending up that little bit offcentered. I’m not sure if 1mm would be that noticeable anyway but when I saw them
    I grabbed them and now have to need for them.
    If they’re any use to anyone send me a PM.

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