FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 1 of 6 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 59

Thread: Taking care of 05106

  1. #1
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    326

    Taking care of 05106

    Post one.
    Correction its vin 005106, Long day
    So it's only been a few days since the delivery of my car (Shipping from DMCMW to Florida)
    I've been getting to know the car, driving short trips around town, so far she is doing very well.

    Today we did the first half of the cooling system, Radiator, new fans, and the hoses at the front of the car. We'd hoped to do it all, as I have the full kit from DMC, but it took a good while just on the front, se we decided to stop there for now.

    Getting a look at what we're up against.


    Old one out!


    Before


    Cleaned up


    Old fans, These were working fine, and don't really look bad, but the new ones draw less amps so in with the new.


    New, with cleaned up surround.


    After installing the new radiator and hoses, it took a bit to get the coolant flowing through the whose system, But after some tinkering we got it so the temp would go up and the fans would come on for a bit and the temp would drop and they'd go off. I let this repeat a few times. I could feel the new radiator and fans putting off heat. Went for a drive, While driving the temp stayed pretty low, as its about 70 out this evening and that air was keeping her cool. New fans are WAY quieter, but I cleaned the old ones up, and they seem to look and work great, So I guess I'll put them on the shelf until I can bring my self to toss em.

    I've been making a list of other things to get to on the car,

    Gas gauge is all over the map, Shows little or no fuel, but I'm pretty sure I've got it toped off.
    Passenger side window will go down, but I've got to really fiddle with the switch, driver side better but not great. (new switches?)
    We can't decide if a valve is tapping, it's sounds like maybe? We've listend to other Deloreans on youtube, perhaps this is just how they sound? (Will keep exploring)
    Idel is good, steady, I like that.
    No AC, This is something I'll probably have DMCFL handle.
    Cosmetically the car looks great, Original all around, Seats are really nice for 81, dash and binnacle are not cracked, A little yellow, not noticeably to non delorean people. Original paint on facias is good.
    The car has 24,000 miles.
    The plan is to get her the care she needs.
    Thanks for keeping up with me so far!
    Last edited by Parzival; 12-03-2018 at 01:12 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    2,371

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Congrats! It looks like a solid car and you're off to a good start on what it needs.

    Cheers,
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,807

    My VIN:    3937

    Nice! Those new fans look great. Are those from DMCH?

    For the fuel gauge, I'd open up the area under the spare tire and above the fuel tank and have a look at the fuel sender. Check the electrical connector and also check the sender itself. You might have the combo fuel pump/sender, which I'm not familiar with, but if you still have the separate sender, take it out and see if anything is wrong with it. You should be able to gently tilt it and see the fuel gauge move as the float inside the cylinder goes up and down. You should see the idiot light go on on the dash telling you the fuel is low when you do this too.

    Or the gauge could have some issue of its own in the cluster. Like a ground connection isn't good. Getting into the cluster is more challenging, so I'd start with looking at the fuel sender in the trunk first.

    My experience with slow windows has been switches that are a problem more so than the window motors or the glass inside the doors themselves. It might just be a poor connection underneath the switch as those plastic connectors can get bent or melted. It's easy enough to wiggle the switches out of position for inspection without pulling the whole centre console out. New switches might still be a good idea and all the vendors have them. Might just need the switch replaced, and a couple places offer those. Both DeLoGO and DMC Europe have those switches (C022). They are a good product and very reasonably priced: https://www.deloreango.com/ca/window...connector.html

    Have fun with your new car!


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  4. #4
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    326

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Nice! Those new fans look great. Are those from DMCH?

    https://www.deloreango.com/ca/window...connector.html

    Have fun with your new car!
    Yes they are, I had DMCMW put them and the full cooling kit (not installed in the car) in my car before shipping the car to me,
    I did look at the sender under the spare tire, but since we were working on the cooling system I didn't do a real good inspection.

    I did have them do a full break rebuild on the car before I got it shipped out.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    8,570

    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    If you don't know what kind of fluids are in the car or when they were last changed you should change all of them and the filters too. Check the date codes on the tires and if over 7 years replace them and the spare tire too. Have the battery tested but if over 5 years old just replace it too. Ticking usually means a valve adjustment. Should hear the frequency valve buzzing. You could try cleaning the fuel sender unit, in the meantime use the trip odometer and fill up after 200 miles. Drive the car and see what else it needs and make a list like door struts, light bulbs, fuses, filters, etc. Verify that all of the recalls have been done. In Florida you will need that A/C to work!
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #6
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    326

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    If you don't know what kind of fluids are in the car or when they were last changed you should change all of them and the filters too. Check the date codes on the tires and if over 7 years replace them and the spare tire too. Have the battery tested but if over 5 years old just replace it too. Ticking usually means a valve adjustment. Should hear the frequency valve buzzing. You could try cleaning the fuel sender unit, in the meantime use the trip odometer and fill up after 200 miles. Drive the car and see what else it needs and make a list like door struts, light bulbs, fuses, filters, etc. Verify that all of the recalls have been done. In Florida you will need that A/C to work!
    Thanks!
    New battery already,
    Oil and filter changed, and full coolant flush done by DMCMW right be for car shipped to me.
    All lights are working.
    So far she starts right up and idles well, shifting smoothly in all 5 gears,
    Im not sure about all the recalls, The car has 25,000 miles on her so most of her is original (like I said, even those fans after being wiped down looked better then some parts on my 2016 tacoma), I think mike at DMCMW said the fuel system was done in 2008. Tires are decent.
    Frame is solid as a rock.

    I'll keep posting in this thread as I continue to burn down my financial future for this beauty
    Keep the insights coming, I greatly appreciate the knowledge from the members here.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    8,570

    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    That still leaves the transmission oil, and the clutch brake fluid. The brakes should be OK since you said they were just done. Read the date codes on each tire. You cannot only go by the remaining tread. The brake and clutch fluid should be changed every other year. Drive the car and empty the tank as low as you can and fill with fresh and a can of Techron. Till you can trust the car you should carry a portable battery pack.
    David Teitelbaum

  8. #8
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    326

    Oh yeah! The clutch hydraulics we’re done last month by DMCMW forgot that,
    On the battery pack, do you have one you recommend? I would like to take your advice on that!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    8,570

    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Any good one is probably OK. I like the ones with a light and an air compressor on them but they are bigger and a lot more expensive. Much better than a set of jumper cables. You don't need another car and there is no danger of damaging a stranger's car. Some even have reverse polarity protection.
    David Teitelbaum

  10. #10
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    326

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Any good one is probably OK. I like the ones with a light and an air compressor on them but they are bigger and a lot more expensive. Much better than a set of jumper cables. You don't need another car and there is no danger of damaging a stranger's car. Some even have reverse polarity protection.
    I think i'm gonna pick one up.

Page 1 of 6 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •