Taking care of 05106

[Parzival]

If you just want to fix the exhaust leak the exhaust manifolds can be cleaned up. First they must be checked for flatness and if necessary ground flat or the new gaskets will just blowout again. Then you can coat them with high temperature coatings so they will look good. Check out Eastwood.com for coatings for exhaust manifolds. You will need the gaskets of course, but you will also probably need studs and nuts. You may even have to drill out broken studs. The vendors sell kits of studs and nuts. Hard to find otherwise, they are an unusual metric size. PJ Grady has a nice set but it is pricey. Congratulations on graduation. Getting the headers is an expensive choice and it won't get you much improvement in HP all by itself. You will have to spend a LOT more to get further improvement.

Thank you. I think after looking at them I’d like to clean them up and coat them with something. I see the kits with studs and gaskets. I’m not excited about the idea of getting those old studs out, but it’s the only way unless I decide to just pay DMCFL to do it. I love those guys, but the more I do myself the more it feels like MY car. I’ll be sleeping on it a few nights before I decide. And of course all input is appreciated here!
I still have to original trailing arm bolts too, that will be something I need to address as well.


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[DMC-81]

Thank you. I think after looking at them I’d like to clean them up and coat them with something. I see the kits with studs and gaskets. I’m not excited about the idea of getting those old studs out, but it’s the only way unless I decide to just pay DMCFL to do it. I love those guys, but the more I do myself the more it feels like MY car. I’ll be sleeping on it a few nights before I decide. And of course all input is appreciated here!
I still have to original trailing arm bolts too, that will be something I need to address as well.


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Hi Austin,

Restoring the original exhaust is fairly straightforward. As you mentioned, the thing that needs careful attention is the 7mm studs. Here's a thread on my experience:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...-stock-exhaust

Hopefully it will help. Replacing the gaskets was one thing that noticeably improved the car. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. I have the stud extractor that you can borrow as well, and plenty of the high temp manifold gray paint left over that you can use as well if you want.

[David T]

I encourage owners to do as much of their own work as they feel comfortable with. If you do decide to tackle the exhaust work an indispensable tool is an Oxy-Acetalyne torch. Not only must you have it you must be able to use it safely. Doing this type of work without one risks breaking all of the studs and causing a ton of extra work. if you don't have one or don't feel comfortable using it, this might be a good job to outsource to DMC.

[Parzival]

I encourage owners to do as much of their own work as they feel comfortable with. If you do decide to tackle the exhaust work an indispensable tool is an Oxy-Acetalyne torch. Not only must you have it you must be able to use it safely. Doing this type of work without one risks breaking all of the studs and causing a ton of extra work. if you don't have one or don't feel comfortable using it, this might be a good job to outsource to DMC.

I think thats good advice!
After looking into all my options, and speaking on the phone with dana a few times I've decided to have DMCFL do the exhaust. I'm going to finish the rest of the cooling system and then take the car over to them. Dana may even be able to come by when we're doing the cooling system which would be amazingly helpful as he's gotten into it before and can provide some guidance.

[Parzival]

Ok guys, I'm beat (just got done cleaning the garage and re organizing dozens of sockets and other tools.

in one go, I repeat "IN ONE GO!"

We replaced all the cooling hoses in the rear of the car. Cleaned the valley of death, and cleaned all electrical contacts around the engine. replaced injector lines and vacuum hoses, replaced thermostat. Cleaned everything else, and got it all back together and cranked back up.

First of all, and most importantly I must thank Dana AKA DMC-81 for doing this with me, amazing guy! He was there from the time we removed the first bolt until it was all back together. I can't imagine anyone dedicating this much time to helping someone out! Amazing!

There is defiantly some fine tuning left to do, (air probably still needs to all be worked out of the system, watching the injector lines closely to make sure non are weeping) etc etc.

The car I believe is idling a tiny bit rougher then before, and doesn't start quite as readily as it did before. Still on first key turn, but after a few turnovers. On a positive note when reving it, it sounds... smoother? I'm not sure, but I think its better in that department now. I had to wrestle with the pipe of agony for about 10 minutes, but eventually got it in. I also had to fuss with a small vacuum leak, that ended up being between the cold start valve and the idle speed motor (old hose, one of only a few that didn't get replaced) I had to put clamps on the hose between them to solve it, even though that hose usually goes without clamps. I'm gonna get a new piece of hose to go there, and see if I can eliminate the clamps.

I've got lots of photos and all that from our adventure I will post, but tonight I'm just too tired!
next step is sorting the exhaust leak.

[David T]

After a job like that you probably need a slight tweak of the mixture screw. If you did the job well you should have less vacuum leakage and that will necessitate a slight adjustment. You can also try a can of Techron to clean up the injectors. If that doesn't smooth it out you should have the injectors cleaned and tested. That is a BIG job to do all in one day but on the bright side, sounds like you didn't break any bolts!!!!!!

[Parzival]

After a job like that you probably need a slight tweak of the mixture screw. If you did the job well you should have less vacuum leakage and that will necessitate a slight adjustment. You can also try a can of Techron to clean up the injectors. If that doesn't smooth it out you should have the injectors cleaned and tested. That is a BIG job to do all in one day but on the bright side, sounds like you didn't break any bolts!!!!!!

Nope, didn't break any bolts in fact they all came out without issue. I think I will put some injector cleaner through there, and put some miles on. We were careful when cleaning the ports not to nock any loos carbon into the engine, but I'm sure some got in. I'll be checking the ground tomorrow for coolant, we used the correct torque value on all the clamps in the valley (thanks again to dana) So I'm pretty confident that we wont see any problems.
As far as my mixture adjustment. The factory cap/seal is still on there, so unless it's necessary I hope to keep from messing with it. (it may be necessary)

She's idling at a steady RPM, just seems like the engine shakes a little more now. Could be everything settling back in? It might be my imagination, but it also seems the sound of the car is lower pitched over all, I've driven less then 25 miles since first starting her back up so who knows? I'm still paranoid there is air in the cooling system, even tho I can't get anything but coolant to come out of the bleed screw on top of the thermostat.

it still may be tough to judge by sound though, because of the sound the exhaust leak makes.

[David T]

You should also loosen the small hose on the top right side of the rad to let air out. Get a dwell meter on the motor and check the duty cycle. Make sure you have eliminated ALL vacuum leaks and the injectors are all working correctly first.

[Parzival]

You should also loosen the small hose on the top right side of the rad to let air out. Get a dwell meter on the motor and check the duty cycle. Make sure you have eliminated ALL vacuum leaks and the injectors are all working correctly first.

I did loosen the top hose on the radiator today too, no air, just got wet, lol

[Riley88]

Thanks!
New battery already,
Oil and filter changed, and full coolant flush done by DMCMW right be for car shipped to me.
All lights are working.
So far she starts right up and idles well, shifting smoothly in all 5 gears,
Im not sure about all the recalls, The car has 25,000 miles on her so most of her is original (like I said, even those fans after being wiped down looked better then some parts on my 2016 tacoma), I think mike at DMCMW said the fuel system was done in 2008. Tires are decent.
Frame is solid as a rock.

I'll keep posting in this thread as I continue to burn down my financial future for this beauty
Keep the insights coming, I greatly appreciate the knowledge from the members here.

Id update most of your lighting to LED and check out daves rpm relay from here on the forum.