Window drop glass off its track - best approach to fix?

[Jonathan]

I realized my passenger window drop glass is off its track. Just the front part though, the rear is still on its rail. And it still goes up and down, but with some clunking and crookedness.

I have been into my doors before to sort out drop glass issues and don't remember it as being much fun. Things are a little busy in there to say the least and getting things all lined-up just right is easier said than done.

Anyone have an approach they used that minimized the pain in the butt factor?

I have both the top and bottom inside trim off including the upper window bracket (the one with the strip of fur along the edge that touches the glass). Not sure what else could be removed to gain better access.

I suspect one or both of the railing brackets are not where they need to be, as the front one seems to be too far forward. I recall these can be adjusted and pivoted in a few different directions. My initial thought is to loosen both of these railing brackets to give me the slack to slide the clips in (the clips that are attached to the drop glass itself). Those clips have kind of a hook on them (to keep them on presumably) and I'm not sure whether you can slide the clips onto the railing only from the top of the railing or from only the bottom. I assume they have to slide down onto the railings from the top, and both at the same time (more or less)?

I can have the glass disconnected from the window motor tubing fastener, and can use the window motor while doing this to get it up or down to meet the glass as needed.

[dn010]

I don't know if there is an easier way but I had to remove the bolts on the metal guide brackets in order to get the drop glass in/out of the car. I think there are two nut/bolts on the front guide and one on the rear guide. They allow the metal guide brackets to rotate/pivot as you mentioned a little bit which helps make room to get the window back on. If you have tint on it, be very careful since the guides will cut up your tint or scratch your glass if you allow it to contact the glass.

EDIT: The glass drops down from the window opening, I don't know of a way to get it secure from inside the door. Once I had the glass in, I put the window up into the channel divider and then tightened the bolts that allow the metal guide brackets to pivot.

This also helped me greatly: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16...rd-from-Amazon
No injuries this time!

[David T]

One tip is to cover all of the edges of the stainless steel with duct tape inside the door. One instant of carelessness and you can slice yourself up and not even realize it till you see red juice all over the place. While inside the door, it is a good time to check all of the lock adjustments. If the locks are sluggish remove, clean, lubricate and reinstall both latches. If the velcro is missing or detached it should be replaced so the glass doesn't get scratched up.

[Rich]

That's a pretty good description of the front guide being off its track. And it looks as if you have all the access you're going to get.

You ask which way the glass carrier goes on. The only way either the front or rear drop glass guides go back onto their rails is from the top. So you need to get the drop glass high enough to clear the front rail if not both front and rear, then work it back down. You can do this with the drop glass carrier attached to the window motor regulator or not. With the carrier disconnected from the motor you can test the guide action by raising and lowering the glass by hand. It should move easily with the carrier horizontal, same as it would be with the motor driving it.

You are right, it should not bind up, make noise or pop off on the way up or down.

Perhaps your window rails need to be moved BUT unless they somehow came loose be sure to think about whether the window was working OK before. There is little reason for the guide rails to move or go out of alignment by themselves other than loose or missing fasteners - or door damage. If they were lined up well for 35 years then they are probably still lined up OK. Recommending you not fiddle with them til you are sure you need to.

There is another piece of advice about reducing the PITA factor when you are in the lower door. Make up a short rope or cable with a metal S-hook at each end of it. Hook the rope/cable to the rear striker pin and a convenient spot on the rear of the door. Use that to hold the door about 2/3 closed after you take get into the seat with both feet on the ground.. This way you'll be facing the mechanisms a bit below eye level and be able to reach around in there. Figure out some good lighting, of course.

Good luck. It's not fun in there.

I realized my passenger window drop glass is off its track. Just the front part though, the rear is still on its rail. And it still goes up and down, but with some clunking and crookedness.

I suspect one or both of the railing brackets are not where they need to be, as the front one seems to be too far forward. I recall these can be adjusted and pivoted in a few different directions. My initial thought is to loosen both of these railing brackets to give me the slack to slide the clips in (the clips that are attached to the drop glass itself). Those clips have kind of a hook on them (to keep them on presumably) RIGHT and I'm not sure whether you can slide the clips onto the railing only from the top of the railing or from only the bottom. I assume they have to slide down onto the railings from the top, and both at the same time (more or less)? Yes, you do.

I can have the glass disconnected from the window motor tubing fastener, and can use the window motor while doing this to get it up or down to meet the glass as needed.