What is the “easiest” engine swap thats most reliable to most HP?

[opethmike]

You guys are probably right that I am underestimating my time, but like Josh said, it was purely garage time. In my estimate, I wasn't factoring in research, time tuning carb once on the road, etc, etc.

Considering the 7k being spent on stage 2 setups, real dyno graphs should be getting supplied by the vendors. By that, I mean at the wheel numbers for the engine installed in a car, and at the crank for the setup on an engine dyno. Not only would this show what one is actually getting for the very high dollars to horsepower ratio, but it would also either confirm or dispel the supposed 32% drivetrain loss.

I'm still quite curious how in the DMC, the UN1 robs 32% power, but not in any of the other cars it is in, or when it is behind (in front?) of an LS, 2ZZ, etc.

[Michael]

Driving a stage II auto for the last 10 years I can say that I am glad my car is equipped with the stage II engine, but I am even more happy that I wasn't the one who paid for the upgrade.

[opethmike]

Driving a stage II auto for the last 10 years I can say that I am glad my car is equipped with the stage II engine, but I am even more happy that I wasn't the one who paid for the upgrade.

Yeah, they certainly are better than stock, but the price isn't worth imho, unless you do the work yourself.

[Nicholas R]

Driving a stage II auto for the last 10 years I can say that I am glad my car is equipped with the stage II engine, but I am even more happy that I wasn't the one who paid for the upgrade.

This might be the best Stage II tagline; "Stage II, the best upgrade a previous owner can buy"

[Michael]

This might be the best Stage II tagline; "Stage II, the best upgrade a previous owner can buy"

LOL...perfect!

Yeah on it's best day it equals 1bhp per 100 bucks spent. On the plus side, I have a base to move to the stage III but with the autobox, I'm going to just play the hand that I was dealt.

[David T]

If you are going to get into the numbers it is not all about raw maximum HP. To really understand what is going on you need to see and compare the before and after of the torque curve and the HP curve. Most people would still need explanation, that is why I refer to the "buttmeter". As for HP vs $$, $7K in the grand scheme of things as far as performance goes, is not all that much. I have seen where people pay a lot more for a lot less power. As you move up the scale every increase tends to be less and less improvement but the costs go up and up. The first 10 HP is a tenth of the next 10 HP and so on. I do agree the time to go for the Stage II is when you need to replace the motor. That way most of the cost is already justified. If you are looking for the most "Bang for the Buck" the turbo is the way to go. You can do it for $4K and get more than you would with the Stage II.

[opethmike]

A turbo... because you want to blow out the already weak cylinder liners...

[Michael]

A turbo... because you want to blow out the already weak cylinder liners...

What did the turbo kits of the day run anyway 5, 6 pounds?

[David T]

The problem with the turbo was control. It used a very rudimentary actuation system and if it failed you could overboost the motor and blow the pistons. The boost has to be kept below 6# or the cast pistons would die. To get more boost it takes forged pistons and intercoolers. The liners are OK to handle more pressure. With the turbo you don't need headers (Stage I) or aggressive cams (Stage II). For anyone thinking of going with Turbos the way to do it now would be to put a computer controlled EFI system on that can control the turbos and get rid of the restrictive K-Jet system. So now you are spending $4K for a turbo kit and another $1-2K for the EFI. Still less cost than a Stage II and more power. IMHO that is the way to go to get the most bang for the buck. And in the future if you want more you can change the pistons and increase the boost. If that isn't enough you can add intercoolers so you have a path to increase the power too.

[Nicholas R]

If you are looking for the most "Bang for the Buck" the turbo is the way to go. You can do it for $4K and get more than you would with the Stage II.

I'm confused, where do you get a $4,000 bolt on turbo kit for a DeLorean?