Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Replacing the Frequency Valve and Return hoses

  1. #11
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    174

    I ordered these lines to also complete my replacement of the old plastic ones. I'll likely be giving you a call for advice

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,449

    My VIN:    3937

    I'm in the home stretch on swapping out my fuel lines too. Huge thank you and appreciation for Dana putting these instructions together for the frequency valve and return hoses. They were very helpful.

    One last area I'm not having the best luck getting tightened up and leak free are the hollow bolt connections on top of each fuel injector. Mine are on and 'tight' but continue to leak, more noticeably on the ones harder to get to, namely cylinders 4 and 5. I'm not clear on what the best method is for torquing these ones as if you aren't also holding on tight with a second wrench grabbing the top of the injector, the whole thing will just rotate. I can get in there more or less with an open ended wrench, and I figured to kind of jam the one edge of the wrench against something immovable, and THEN try to get the proper torque value.

    Any other tips or tricks with these? I had done initially, as with all the ones of this same small size, a torque value of 9 ft-lb. When I went to fire the engine back up and noticed the only things not leak free were these injectors, I went up one more to 10 ft-lb. It may be less too possibly considering the movement of the lower wrench.

    Please let me know if you have any advice. Thanks.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  3. #13
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    174

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I'm in the home stretch on swapping out my fuel lines too. Huge thank you and appreciation for Dana putting these instructions together for the frequency valve and return hoses. They were very helpful.

    One last area I'm not having the best luck getting tightened up and leak free are the hollow bolt connections on top of each fuel injector. Mine are on and 'tight' but continue to leak, more noticeably on the ones harder to get to, namely cylinders 4 and 5. I'm not clear on what the best method is for torquing these ones as if you aren't also holding on tight with a second wrench grabbing the top of the injector, the whole thing will just rotate. I can get in there more or less with an open ended wrench, and I figured to kind of jam the one edge of the wrench against something immovable, and THEN try to get the proper torque value.

    Any other tips or tricks with these? I had done initially, as with all the ones of this same small size, a torque value of 9 ft-lb. When I went to fire the engine back up and noticed the only things not leak free were these injectors, I went up one more to 10 ft-lb. It may be less too possibly considering the movement of the lower wrench.

    Please let me know if you have any advice. Thanks.
    wait, are you trying to torque the injectors while they are in the block?
    You need to do this with injectors removed from the block.

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,449

    My VIN:    3937

    Quote Originally Posted by Parzival View Post
    wait, are you trying to torque the injectors while they are in the block?
    You need to do this with injectors removed from the block.
    Yes, I was.

    Does this need to be done with the injector held tight in a bench vice then?


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  5. #15
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    174

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Yes, I was.

    Does this need to be done with the injector held tight in a bench vice then?
    you just need it out so you can torque em. you could put them in a vice if you have one, you dont need to smash them in there. just enough to keep them from rotating. you can do it with a wrench, along with your torque wrench. (2 wrenches)
    but yeah, I'm not surprised you had trouble trying to do that with the injectors in the block. That's like trying to fix a VHS tape while its still in the VCR.

  6. #16
    Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2016

    Location:  Cardiff

    Posts:    65

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post

    I removed the 8mm hard line swivel nut (106981) from the metric compression male adapter (106994):

    Here's a great tip: Position two 17 mm wrenches of the same length, one on each fitting and lined up to squeeze them together with one hand ( make sure you are turning the swivel nut counterclockwise). Then squeeze them axially, (avoid lateral forces). DO NOT use a wrench in each hand, as this introduces lateral forces that will work against you and or bend the hard line. Use this one hand technique to loosen and tighten the fittings. I learned this tip from the DeLorean UK forum and it worked fantastic: http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewto...9b24e2e34dc612

    I also used WD-40 liberally 2 or 3 times and let it sit for 2 days on the two fittings here before attempting the removal, and used a 1" length of PVC pipe for extra leverage in this tight space as the fittings were very tight.
    Woo hoo - somebody used and acknowledged my tip - thanks for that acknowledgement . It works great doesn't it?
    Last edited by SpudMurphy; 05-09-2019 at 02:06 PM.
    Currently resurrecting Vin # 11789 - the last of the batch of 50 exported to the Middle East. She's looking a bit sad !

  7. #17
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    1,960

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by SpudMurphy View Post
    Woo hoo - somebody used and acknowledged my tip - thanks for that acknowledgement . It works great doesn't it?
    You're welcome! It sure does work great!
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  8. #18
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    174

    Dana, your return line install looks amazing. Did I notice you're line appears to have some slack in it. I did mine and it hardly reaches? Is there any danger with this line being pulled tight like this?
    Yours

    vs mine

  9. #19
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    1,960

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by Parzival View Post
    Dana, your return line install looks amazing. Did I notice you're line appears to have some slack in it. I did mine and it hardly reaches? Is there any danger with this line being pulled tight like this?
    Yours

    vs mine

    Thanks, and yes. I didn't tighten up the other end (with the banjo fitting) until I was satisfied that it had sufficient slack. In that picture above, I settled on the clockwise position between the WUR/CPR hose and an injector hose.

    Then I adjusted the position a bit as shown in this final picture. I ended up adjusting (rotating) the return line 90 degree rigid elbow back a bit to make the top side horizontal, as in the first picture the line was kinked a bit at the fitting.



    I would ensure the line is not too tight and there are no sharp curves in the flexible hose.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  10. #20
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2018

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    174

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Thanks, and yes. I didn't tighten up the other end (with the banjo fitting) until I was satisfied that it had sufficient slack. In that picture above, I settled on the clockwise position between the WUR/CPR hose and an injector hose.

    Then I adjusted the position a bit as shown in this final picture. I ended up adjusting (rotating) the return line 90 degree rigid elbow back a bit to make the top side horizontal, as in the first picture the line was kinked a bit at the fitting.



    I would ensure the line is not too tight and there are no sharp curves in the flexible hose.
    its not too tight, still a little play in it. I may re position it more like yours is.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •