Door lights *** Moved from How To: install GPS...###

[CFI]

Tired of replacing angle drives? SpeedBox can help with that.

Purpose:
-to bypass the failure prone angle drive with an electronic unit that uses GPS derived speed to drive the DeLorean speedometer.

Time neeeded:
-1 to 1.5 hours

Parts needed:
-SpeedBox GPS to mechanical drive speed converter, available from Speedhut
https://www.speedhut.com/ecommerce/p...peed-Converter
-wire stripper and crimper
-butt connectors
-Phillips head screw driver
-nut driver with 7mm, 10mm, and possibly 8mm sockets (I’ll explain later)

Part 1, prep work

Begin by disconnecting vehicle battery. Unhook both speedo cables from your Lambda counter in the driver footwell. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the Lambda counter from it’s bracket. Unhook the electrical connector.

Remove the door buzzer from it’s socket in the driver’s footwell.
Cut and strip the black wire from the buzzer connector (second to last position).
OPTIONAL: cut and strip the purple wire from the buzzer connector (first position). Do this if you plan on providing the SpeedBox with constant power for faster acquisition of satellites (it draws very little power to do this).
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Take the wiring harness that comes with the SpeedBox and attach a butt connector to the black wire.
OPTIONAL: attach a butt connector to the red/black wire. This will provide the GPS unit with constant power and enable faster satellite acquisition. This is not required.
The SpeedBox comes with an in-line fuse that needs to be attached to the red wire. You can do this with the butt connectors that are included in the kit. Make sure to put a butt connector an each end of the fused wire.
OPTIONAL: cut the connector off your Lambda counter. Attach the wire coming from the male part of the connector to the other end of the fused wire. You don’t have to reuse the Lambda connector. You could just cut and and splice the green wire from the Lambda connector on your car’s harness.
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Part 2, binnacle work

You will need to partially remove the binnacle. You do not need to disconnect any of the electrical connections on the back of the instrument panel. You only need to remove the binnacle a few inches. Please reference this thread:http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?50...lb-Replacement.

NOTE: seat removal is not required, but it will give you more space to work with. Also my car had four 7mm nuts and two 8mm nuts holding the binnacle.

With the binnacle partially removed, find where the speedometer cable attaches to the speedometer. Press on the bottom of the retainer clip that holds the cable and gently pull the cable off. Feed the new speedometer cable up through the dash and attach to the back of the speedometer. Remember to push on the bottom of the retainer clip in order to allow the cable to be fully pushed into place. Make sure the cable is secured with a gentle tug. Feed the GPS antenna through the dash and leave it sitting near the windshield just forward of the binnacle opening. Reinstall binnacle. Route the speedometer cable towards the left side of the drivers footwell. Make sure it does not interfere with the trunk opener.

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Part 3, installation

Connect the SpeedBox wiring harness to the SpeedBox. Attach speedometer cable and GPS antenna to SpeedBox. Locate bolt near drivers door switches. Remove the 10mm nut and washer. Mount SpeedBox onto bolt and reinstall 10 mm nut. Try to keep the speedometer cable as horizontal as possible. The second picture shows the SpeedBox prior to aligning the cable and tightening the nut.
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Attach the fused red wire/recycled Lambda connector to the Lambda connector in the car. If you chose not to recycle the Lambda connector you can just cut and splice the green wire from the vehicle’s Lambda connector.
Attach the black SpeedBox wire to the black wire from the buzzer connector.
OPTIONAL: Attach the red/black wire from the SpeedBox to the purple wire from the buzzer connector.
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Hide all the wires behind the vehicle carpeting. Reconnect vehicle battery. Say goodbye to angle drives
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[Chris4099]

Very cool. Hopefully the motor inside that unit lasts a long time. Can you hear it while driving or does the engine and road noise cover the sound it makes? I also assume you got the GM clip-on version?

One thing to note, your inertia switch is in the wrong location. There's a recall on that for it to be relocated near the trunk release lever. Put it there (along with a new switch assuming that's the wrong version as well) and then you can remove the whole lambda counter bracket.

[CFI]

Very cool. Hopefully the motor inside that unit lasts a long time. Can you hear it while driving or does the engine and road noise cover the sound it makes? I also assume you got the GM clip-on version?

The unit has a 5 year warranty. Mounting it near the drivers door switches gives the advantage of easy replacement if needed. It also allows easy adjustments should you find the speedometer to be inaccurate.

I can’t hear any noise from the unit but I have a Stage II engine. Normal conversations are tough to hear

Yes, the unit is the GM clip on style.

[Josh]

Glad to see another speedbox installation!
i hope it works as well for you as it does for me.

[r00b]

Where'd you have your dash recovered? Also you can add an remove the Speedo cable without removing the binnacle.

[A Van]

Nice write up thanks for posting


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[CFI]

Where'd you have your dash recovered? Also you can add an remove the Speedo cable without removing the binnacle.

DMC Florida. The car was refurbished in 2008. They did an awesome job!

I can’t imagine being able to remove the speedo cable from the back of the instrument without pulling the binnacle up a few inches. There is all sorts of stuff under the instrument panel that gets in your way, and routing the cable without being able to see where it’s going and while pressing on the bottom of the retainer clip would be tough.

Moving the binnacle up a few inches also allows you to place the GPS antenna in a relatively discreet location as pictured in this post.

[CFI]

Nice write up thanks for posting


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You’re welcome! So far the device has been working perfectly.

[CFI]

I wanted to add that I’ve driven a few miles in tunnels with this device and it does not go to zero in the tunnel. It shows your speed when you entered the tunnel and assumes you are maintaining that speed. Once in range of satellites it corrects itself.

[benjamincoyle]

Fantastic write up! Thank you for this! I had one question that I’m not sure if anybody here can answer or not but in the photos for the speedbox it shows a cable that looks a lot like the thread on cables that connect to the angle drive and the LAMBDA so I was wondering if you could not just take the upper cable that runs from the speedo to the LAMBDA already and connect directly to the box?


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