FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5
Results 41 to 46 of 46

Thread: 3D Printable Time Machine Parts Project

  1. #41
    Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2022

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    7012

    Thank you so much for sharing this!

    So far I am 2-for-13 with my 3D printer, in terms of getting things successfully printed. But I am learning!

    For this heatsink thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2184834

    ...it doesn't print because it tries to put some material in mid-air when it gets to that second flange from the bottom. But I think if the two pieces could be split up and rotated 90 degrees, it would work. (Maybe it would be tipsy from being tall and thin but I don't know).

    I am looking for a free, entry-level program to try to edit these things but haven't found one yet. TinkerCAD doesn't seem to allow you to "cut", and it looks like Fusion360 is a paid product, which I'm not quite ready for that level of commitment yet, given my batting average with the printer.

    Anyways I'll keep trying stuff, it's been fun so far!

  2. #42
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,006

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by mike123 View Post
    For this heatsink thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2184834

    ...it doesn't print because it tries to put some material in mid-air when it gets to that second flange from the bottom. But I think if the two pieces could be split up and rotated 90 degrees, it would work. (Maybe it would be tipsy from being tall and thin but I don't know).
    Yes you would need to rotate that 90 degrees or add a lot of supports.

    Your slicer should allow you to rotate the model.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #43
    Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2022

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    7012

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Your slicer should allow you to rotate the model.
    Oh, I did not know that but you're right!

    I was also able to add a little rectangle of material on the TinkerCAD website, so that when I rotated it, it would have 100% of the footprint flat on the printer bed. The result is here:
    https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3C7...old-heat-sinks

    Hope it is helpful to some people! I am 10 hours into the print (15 or so to go) but fingers-crossed it does look like it will work.

  4. #44
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,006

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by mike123 View Post
    Oh, I did not know that but you're right!

    I was also able to add a little rectangle of material on the TinkerCAD website, so that when I rotated it, it would have 100% of the footprint flat on the printer bed. The result is here:
    https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3C7...old-heat-sinks

    Hope it is helpful to some people! I am 10 hours into the print (15 or so to go) but fingers-crossed it does look like it will work.
    What I do with my resin printer is add a printed platform that sits on closely spaced standoffs so that it can easily pop off the built plate. Building with a large flat surface on the build plate is very hard to remove. I do have a filament printer but am spoiled with the quality I get with resin printing.

    I then cut or sand off that built plate.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #45
    Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2022

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    7012

    Oh interesting, I haven't even heard of resin printing, maybe something to look into once I have a better handle on the 3D Filament stuff.

    The heat sink print came out perfect, took a bit less than 24 hours. I was surprised at how tall it is, but I've never seen any of this stuff in person anywhere else.

  6. #46
    Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2022

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    7012

    I have begun printing some flux capacitor pieces that are linked in the description of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwaCr0_KH5M

    So far, they are coming out very nicely! The Torr relay base and top just snap together, I didn't realize how precise these models and printers can be. My first flux capacitor used some sliced wooden dowels for this part.

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •