65 PSI is not to high for primary pressure. It should be 75 PSI but most cars are running around 70 PSI that I've tested.Originally Posted by Boxbot
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
65 PSI is not to high for primary pressure. It should be 75 PSI but most cars are running around 70 PSI that I've tested.
Location: Near Philadelphia
Posts: 140
My VIN: 1596
Club(s): (DMA)
Not to second guess Dave, but can anyone confirm?
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 1,168
My VIN: 10270
D:02:01 in the service manual has the specifications.
Checking value: 4.9-5.5 bar
Setting value: 5.1-5.3 bar
4.5 bar (450kPa) would be a bit low.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
So you want to set 5.2 bar (75.4 PSI) if your adjusting it to design. I set mine but I did not notice any change in engine operation from where it was at 70 PSI.
Location: Near Philadelphia
Posts: 140
My VIN: 1596
Club(s): (DMA)
From mechanic:
The control pressure out of the warm up regulator is showing that pressure, which the spec should be 49-53 PSI. We should have been seeing 345-375 kPA at the temperatures we were working at.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
OK. Your control pressure is to high. Most likely you need a rebuilt warm up regulator but if the filter on the WUR (inlet screen is plugged or dirty) that can cause the pressure to be to high.
Location: Near Philadelphia
Posts: 140
My VIN: 1596
Club(s): (DMA)
That's where we started. I mentioned on page 7 they pulled and examined the CPR (warm up regulator) and said it looks like new. They pulled the return hose but control pressure is still too high.
I've asked them to order shims for the primary pressure regulator. Not sure what else it could be.
Last edited by Boxbot; 06-20-2019 at 04:40 PM.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
It won't be corrected by adjusting the primary pressure unless that is to high.
Location: Near Philadelphia
Posts: 140
My VIN: 1596
Club(s): (DMA)
If it's not the CPR or the return hose, what else could it be? Could CPR need to be rebuilt even if not clogged?
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The CPR can lose calibration, the screen can get plugged up and the wiring for the internal heater burns up. To understand the CPR better read D:01:11, :12. To test it get the fuel pressure gauge on the system and refer to the chart and specs on D:02:01. Before testing the CPR verify the vacuum hoses are hooked up correctly and not leaking.
David Teitelbaum
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