New Overheating Issue and Growing Laundry list of Frustration

[Ron]

If it's not the CPR or the return hose, what else could it be? Could CPR need to be rebuilt even if not clogged?

Which return hose?
The return hose from the CPR to the FD and the return hose from the FD to the tank must both be clear. These two hoses share a chamber in the FD, which also has to be clear (check for broke o-ring/trash in PPR chamber/ports/passages/etc). Otherwise, your your Control Pressure will approach/match the Primary Pressure.

Your Primary Pressure is a bit low but ~OK, so it has to be the CPR is not trying to bleed off pressure or the path it uses to bleed pressure back to the tank with is restricted.
PUMP 90psi+ >>> FD-PPR 75psi > CPR INPUT HOSE > CPR > CPR RETURN HOSE > FD > SHARED CHAMBER > FD RETURN HOSE > TANK

Similar problem/info here.

[Boxbot]

Which return hose?
The return hose from the CPR to the FD and the return hose from the FD to the tank must both be clear. These two hoses share a chamber in the FD, which also has to be clear (check for broke o-ring/trash in PPR chamber/ports/passages/etc). Otherwise, your your Control Pressure will approach/match the Primary Pressure.

Your Primary Pressure is a bit low but ~OK, so it has to be the CPR is not trying to bleed off pressure or the path it uses to bleed pressure back to the tank with is restricted.
PUMP 90psi+ >>> FD-PPR 75psi > CPR INPUT HOSE > CPR > CPR RETURN HOSE > FD > SHARED CHAMBER > FD RETURN HOSE > TANK

Similar problem/info here.

65 PSI references high control pressure NOT low primary pressure.

[Ron]

Yes 65 is a bit low for primary pressure, but probably not enough to cause major problems...

I'm not getting your point since the problem is high Control Pressure. I.E., Didn't you mean the Primary and Control Pressures were the same here (65psi)?

So you want to set 5.2 bar (75.4 PSI) if your adjusting it to design.

From mechanic:

The control pressure out of the warm up regulator is showing that pressure...

[Boxbot]

I replaced my battery (again) and took the car out twice this week. There were no issues with shifting the manual transmission at all. Today, I went to start it and the car will not go into reverse. It just grinds with the clutch pedal fully engaged. Forward gears are available, but very hard to get the stick to go into location with the engine running.

If I turn the car off, I can shift the car into reverse. In fact, if I have the car turned off, it rows through the gears fine. Clutch pedal has resistance, but I can't sense an engagement point as I can't get it into gear. I doubt I burned up the clutch as I've been driving manuals my whole life and didn't smell any smoke or anything like that. Again, everything was fine. I parked it overnight and now it won't go into gear. What fresh hell is this?

Clutch was replaced by PO before I bought it. My shop replaced the leaking clutch master cylinder last year. The clutch slave cylinder was reported to be ok, so we did not replace that. I do not see any fluid under the car.

[Ron]

The Fluid God is punishing you for leaving us hanging with the previous issue...

Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging fully. A burnt up clutch shouldn't cause this, but slipping problems instead.
Since only the master was replaced, I'd first suspect the slave since you have no leaks. Then:
The OEM plastic fluid line needs to be replaced.
System needs bleeding.
Trans fluid very low.

[82DMC12]

Maybe when the clutch master was replaced, and all the fluid was changed, it flushed out some junk that was keeping the slave somewhat functional. Fresh fluid / wrong fluid might be leaking internally in the clutch slave. As Ron said, I would change the slave, change to a braided line, and flush/bleed completely.

[Boxbot]

The Fluid God is punishing you for leaving us hanging with the previous issue...

Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging fully. A burnt up clutch shouldn't cause this, but slipping problems instead.
Since only the master was replaced, I'd first suspect the slave since you have no leaks. Then:
The OEM plastic fluid line needs to be replaced.
System needs bleeding.
Trans fluid very low.

Thanks.

Didn't follow up because the issue was never corrected. I just ended up warming the car up before attempting to go anywhere. I was hoping to get it to a specialist over the winter, but that ended up not happening.

Anyway, the clutch lines were replaced/upgraded. I think the system was bled, but will look into it. Thanks, guys.

[Boxbot]

Maybe when the clutch master was replaced, and all the fluid was changed, it flushed out some junk that was keeping the slave somewhat functional. Fresh fluid / wrong fluid might be leaking internally in the clutch slave. As Ron said, I would change the slave, change to a braided line, and flush/bleed completely.

Lines are new, but slave sounds plausible. I have one sitting in a box. It's the only part of the system that wasn't replaced.

I don't think it's trans fluid level as I don't see any leak/fluid and this all happened suddenly. Thanks.

[dn010]

What happens if you pump the pedal a bunch of times before trying to shift? Or try shifting in first and then reverse.

[Ron]

Thanks.

Didn't follow up because the issue was never corrected. I just ended up warming the car up before attempting to go anywhere. I was hoping to get it to a specialist over the winter, but that ended up not happening.

Anyway, the clutch lines were replaced/upgraded. I think the system was bled, but will look into it. Thanks, guys.

I'd almost bet that your warm up regulator is bad. And that someone here would be willing to let you try a good one off a carb or EFI conversion laying around w/o committing to purchasing??

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I'd try bleeding the slave first, paying close attention to the color and amount of air in what first comes out.


+1 Dan!