New Overheating Issue and Growing Laundry list of Frustration

[Boxbot]

I noticed something happening on my own car that made me think it might be part of your problems too.

I had my doors apart working on window motors and realized the door lights were staying on. This is because the door light plungers get pushed in to shut the lights off by coming into contact with a piece of that lower door trim panel. When the panel is off the door, the gap is too far and the plunger doesn't engage. So the lights stay on even with the door closed and they are very hard to notice because the light gets trapped and doesn't shine out other than through that small seam left from where the door panel isn't.

Like you said, the door lights may have been a big contributor to the battery drain issue. This might be why your door lights were staying on. Once you start to get things back together, and plug those door plunger switches back in, you might find out they work ok afterall. Assuming there isn't some other wiring mistake hiding in there too.

Agreed, and I seem to have lost the rubber bit for the passenger side switch (Do you know a part number?) but this is happening even with both door lights unplugged so I have no idea what could be partially completing the circuit.

[Jonathan]

Agreed, and I seem to have lost the rubber bit for the passenger side switch (Do you know a part number?) but this is happening even with both door lights unplugged so I have no idea what could be partially completing the circuit.

The 'official' part is here: https://store.delorean.com/p-7014-ti...esy-light.aspx

Although, you can buy an assortment pack of 'vacuum caps' at any auto parts store and just use one that is the size you need. You could stick a wad of tape on the end of it if you really felt like it. I know that'd be Red Green approved anyway.

Might be a good idea to have a long look at the interior lighting wiring diagram and see what isn't right on your car. The wires underneath the dash going to the door light plungers can get mixed around. The driver's side ones can get mixed up with the door ajar buzzer ones and the wires on the passenger side can get mixed around with the ones meant for the glovebox light. It's confusing in that they are all very similar colours and a pain in the butt to get your head up under there to see what is going on.

Interior lights also tie into the two dome lights, which have an always on position, an off position and a position where they are supposed to come on with the door lights. The door lights are also supposed to come on only when that particular door is opened. Passenger door opens, passenger door lights come on. Similar for the driver's side. Either door open turns on the dome lights though. And there are a set of three diodes under the driver's footwell to accomplish this. I suspect something in all of that is crossed up somehow and you get to have some fun figuring it out It's the sort of thing that's a rite of passage for D ownership. Hours of frustration trying to make one silly little light come on.

[Boxbot]

The 'official' part is here: https://store.delorean.com/p-7014-ti...esy-light.aspx

Although, you can buy an assortment pack of 'vacuum caps' at any auto parts store and just use one that is the size you need. You could stick a wad of tape on the end of it if you really felt like it. I know that'd be Red Green approved anyway.

Might be a good idea to have a long look at the interior lighting wiring diagram and see what isn't right on your car. The wires underneath the dash going to the door light plungers can get mixed around. The driver's side ones can get mixed up with the door ajar buzzer ones and the wires on the passenger side can get mixed around with the ones meant for the glovebox light. It's confusing in that they are all very similar colours and a pain in the butt to get your head up under there to see what is going on.

Interior lights also tie into the two dome lights, which have an always on position, an off position and a position where they are supposed to come on with the door lights. The door lights are also supposed to come on only when that particular door is opened. Passenger door opens, passenger door lights come on. Similar for the driver's side. Either door open turns on the dome lights though. And there are a set of three diodes under the driver's footwell to accomplish this. I suspect something in all of that is crossed up somehow and you get to have some fun figuring it out It's the sort of thing that's a rite of passage for D ownership. Hours of frustration trying to make one silly little light come on.

Yes, my car came with the poster sized wiring diagram from DMCH, so that will be helpful - but it's going to be a lot of diagnosis. Lights all upgraded to LED, but:
1) seat belt light doesn't work
2) buzzer disconnected because it doesn't shut off
3) door lights don't turn off
4) courtesy lights not connected to driver's door
5) rear courtesy light doesn't shut off after door closes when flipped that way
5) door ajar light not connected to driver's door
6) windshield washer doesn't work (could be electrical or mechanical)
7) glove box light doesn't work

[Jonathan]

Yes, my car came with the poster sized wiring diagram from DMCH, so that will be helpful - but it's going to be a lot of diagnosis. Lights all upgraded to LED, but:
1) seat belt light doesn't work
2) buzzer disconnected because it doesn't shut off
3) door lights don't turn off
4) courtesy lights not connected to driver's door
5) rear courtesy light doesn't shut off after door closes when flipped that way
5) door ajar light not connected to driver's door
6) windshield washer doesn't work (could be electrical or mechanical)
7) glove box light doesn't work

The good news is, many of those things will likely turn out to be related. So once you fix a couple of them, the rest will follow suit.

Since that's just about the entire interior lighting system mentioned, you could probably be okay with just unplugging everything and starting from scratch. Identify what wire is supposed to go where, plug it in, and move on to the next, until you're finished. And keep in mind that those LEDs have a polarity to them, so not seeing them working might just mean they are plugged in 180 degrees off. Not all of them are reversible that way, but many are. And the way those dome lights get wired up is anything but obvious or straightforward, so that could be something unique to just how they are connected inside the housing.

[CFI]

Personally, I don’t like any of the interior lights. I feel they are all just a battery drain waiting to happen, leaving me stranded on date night with my wife....who isn’t a huge fan of the car to begin with. I’ve disconnected the interior dome lights, glove box, trunk, and engine lights. Most of those are of dubious usefulness anyway (I’m looking at you, engine light). I like the door marker lights, so I’ve kept those connected. They are LED though and confirmed to not have any affect on battery life even when left on for many hours at car shows.

[Boxbot]

I fixed the passenger side window and reassembled the passenger side door. I had to ply the top of the tube open slightly wider as the gear was getting hung up. It's not as refined as the driver's door operation, but it doesn't get jammed in the up position any longer, so a win.


And now two new issues!

The car has developed a high pitched rotational squeak/squeal at low speed when turning left. CV boot or wheel bearing maybe?

There is also a seriously irritating chirping sound that sounds like it's coming from the rear deck behind the seats. Seems to be present even if I have fusebox lid off. Any known common causes?

[dn010]

Wheel bearing would be my bet if it’s noisy while turning. You’ll have to figure out if front or rear. Replace them in pairs.

[AugustneverEnds]

There is also a seriously irritating chirping sound that sounds like it's coming from the rear deck behind the seats. Seems to be present even if I have fusebox lid off. Any known common causes?

When you say fusebox lid do you mean the wooden cover for the entire relay compartment or the plastic one just for the fuse block? If you mean the latter don't bother putting it on, it only traps the heat and helps melt the fuse block

The chirping might be a relay clicking on and off. When you notice it does anything turn on like the cooling fans or the blower motor specifically speeds 3 or 4?

Your squeal suggests a wheel bearing but might be something rubbing. Do you feel anything in the steering when it squeals?

[Boxbot]

When you say fusebox lid do you mean the wooden cover for the entire relay compartment or the plastic one just for the fuse block? If you mean the latter don't bother putting it on, it only traps the heat and helps melt the fuse block

The chirping might be a relay clicking on and off. When you notice it does anything turn on like the cooling fans or the blower motor specifically speeds 3 or 4?

Your squeal suggests a wheel bearing but might be something rubbing. Do you feel anything in the steering when it squeals?

I was saying it's present even if I have the wooden cover off. Chirping sound is not mechanical. It sounds like two parts on the rear shelf rubbing together and causing a chirp sound when driving. It's possible it's from the engine compartment, but sounds like it's in the passenger compartment with me.

[Boxbot]

Started headliners tonight. Didn't get to finish up. I am replacing with a fiberglass set from DMCH. The 40 year old duct tape had separated from the roof entirely and was a gummy mess. Cave drawings were minimal.

My original cardboard units are in really nice condition and came off without bending or tearing. i could have (and should have) had them recovered. I'll be listing the originals for sale in the near future.


IMG_8046.jpgIMG_8047.jpgIMG_8048.jpg