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Originally Posted by
Ron
I'd try bleeding the slave first, paying close attention to the color and amount of air in what first comes out.
+1 Dan!
Agreed. I'd NEVER change only the master or slave unless I know the other one is new. I've seen just flushing an old system cause one or the other to fail within days.
Best thing is to flush the fluid every year or two, and when one fails change both.
Don't drive it like this, this is what causes transmission internal rollpin and/or sliding gear failures.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
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Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
Agreed. I'd NEVER change only the master or slave unless I know the other one is new. I've seen just flushing an old system cause one or the other to fail within days.
Best thing is to flush the fluid every year or two, and when one fails change both.
Don't drive it like this, this is what causes transmission internal rollpin and/or sliding gear failures.
X2 Almost always if the clutch fluid is bad the brake fluid is also bad and vice versa. If the fluid is thick or dark it is bad. If you can't remember when it was last changed it has been too long. Flushing old, dark fluid out of a system that has been neglected usually results in it leaking everywhere within a few days. Just as a test you should flush the clutch system to get it to work but expect to replace things when they start leaking. Look under the carpet on the driver's side for a leaky master cylinder. You can drive with the plastic hose but when you replace the cylinders you should change the hose to a S/S hose. Very bad to drive and force shifts, as Dave says you will cause internal damage to the transmission.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
David T
X2 Almost always if the clutch fluid is bad the brake fluid is also bad and vice versa. If the fluid is thick or dark it is bad. If you can't remember when it was last changed it has been too long. Flushing old, dark fluid out of a system that has been neglected usually results in it leaking everywhere within a few days. Just as a test you should flush the clutch system to get it to work but expect to replace things when they start leaking. Look under the carpet on the driver's side for a leaky master cylinder. You can drive with the plastic hose but when you replace the cylinders you should change the hose to a S/S hose. Very bad to drive and force shifts, as Dave says you will cause internal damage to the transmission.
As I mentioned, new non-leaking master cylinder installed and system flushed last year and hoses have been upgraded to stainless.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
dn010
What happens if you pump the pedal a bunch of times before trying to shift? Or try shifting in first and then reverse.
Pumped it a bunch of times and now it can't find any gears while running. There's resistance in the pedal, but no clear engagement point. I guess it's the slave cylinder. Every other part in the system is new. Can someone point me towards a how to for bleeding the system and/or replacing the slave cylinder?
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EFI'd
Originally Posted by
Boxbot
Pumped it a bunch of times and now it can't find any gears while running. There's resistance in the pedal, but no clear engagement point. I guess it's the slave cylinder. Every other part in the system is new. Can someone point me towards a how to for bleeding the system and/or replacing the slave cylinder?
At least that narrowed it down. Here is a post about replacement, it contains links to other useful posts regarding same. Before I swapped engines to go EFI, I went under the car, wrapped my hands up and around the transmission and removed the slave that way. PITA.
Post 23 gives you instructions on both cylinder removal and bleeding the system. Save your old slave cylinder, you'll probably need to send it as a core.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2723
Last edited by dn010; 05-01-2020 at 11:47 AM.
-----Dan B.
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Doing it from underneath you do wrap your hands around the transmission. Two bolts. Awkward but doable. The other way is from the top but there is so much in the way and it takes small hands and you still have to go underneath to undo the hose.. Remove the slave cylinder WITH the short metal line and take it off once you get the cylinder out. Some vendors want the old one, some don't. Find out BEFORE you toss it away. Some vendors offer cylinders resleeved in brass or S/S. Nice but not necessary if you flush the system at least once every 2 years. Flushing is a WHOLE lot easier and cheaper than replacing parts.
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Senior Member
Update: it seems the PO strikes again. One of the stainless clutch cables had come loose and I lost pressure in the system. It's as if the guy didn't own a metric socket set - so many things are unsafely hand tightened. At least it didn't leave me stranded. Anyway, tightened and flushed system and we're back to normal.
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