New Overheating Issue and Growing Laundry list of Frustration

[steve]

I was saying it's present even if I have the wooden cover off. Chirping sound is not mechanical. It sounds like two parts on the rear shelf rubbing together and causing a chirp sound when driving. It's possible it's from the engine compartment, but sounds like it's in the passenger compartment with me.

If manual trans. could it be the throwout bearing. Does it disappear when pressing the clutch in?

[Boxbot]

If manual trans. could it be the throwout bearing. Does it disappear when pressing the clutch in?

Not sure. I will check. I certainly hope not. Clutch and TOB were replaced by PO and only have a few hundred miles on them.

[Boxbot]

Updates:

Took car on first real trip this weekend to DMA event and met a lot of great people. Probably about 400 miles round trip. I Averaged 27 MPG or so and it appears I have a functional car!

Coolant
Took car in to shop to have new coolant hoses, thermostat, water pump and bled system. During trip, engine temp was steady on 1/4 mark. After coming home, I let it run for a while at idle. Between 1/4 and 1/2 mark, fans kicked on and temp came back down towards 1/4 mark. Seems to work 100%. No more coolant leaks. Shop found significant amount of coolant in the VOD.

A/C
(Hopefully) I dodged a bullet here. They found a corroded and leaking low side R134a conversion valve. After cleaning it up, it appears to hold pressure and they didn't notice any other leaks. A/C appeared to work fine on trip, but it was pretty balmy.

Exhaust
Mechanic installed second hand Stage 1 exhaust with new rubber mounts and new gaskets. It's ... um ... very loud. Only one of the cats is functional. The other is caved out. There's a lot of burbling at any RPM whenever I'm off the throttle and a lot of droning when I'm on the gas. I guess for now I'll see if I can learn to love it, but I have a feeling I'll be looking at other options down the road. I doubt this is how it sounded from the factory.

Oil
Oil change with 15W-40 Rotella and Bosch filter, and replacement of oil pressure sender light (I had replaced crush washer previously but the internals were spinning and causing an ongoing leak). No more oil leak!

Transmission
Replaced unit that was leaking in passenger compartment with new DMCH unit. Filled and bled system. I'm missing my flywheel protection shield and I have a leak at the driver's side drive shaft seal but apparently so do a lot of these.

Steering
Missing cotter pin through castle nut on driver's side. Previously, steering felt a bit floaty at highway speeds. The mechanic found the steering wheel shaft was loose and tightened it. I now feel like the steering is notchy or sticky at highway speeds - but subsequent inspection that the DMA event found I need a new tie rod end, and when I returned home I discovered I was running about 28 PSI in the front, 32 in the rear. Haven't been back out since changing to 23 PSI front/30 rear but maybe that will help. Rotational squealing when low speed turning left and rubbing sound when low speed turning right are diagnosed for now.

Trailing arm covers
I reattached them even though they only serve a dubious purpose. I didn't notice any additional noise or benefit but at least they're not taking up space in my garage.

Fuel
Hoses by fuel accumulator had no rubber left on them. I have a new set ordered. My fuel filter is not mounted to the frame. It's just hanging there. This is really bad because if the metal hose breaks, I'm removing the frame to fit a new one. The fuel tank plate is being held on by 6 bolts instead of 20. Does anyone know the correct size bolts needed to mount the filter bracket to the frame and the ones needed for the tank plate? (14 of one with washers and 6 of another).

Interior
New fiberglass headliner in and fixed broken glove box light.

[DMCMW Dave]

Updates:

Fuel
Hoses by fuel accumulator had no rubber left on them. I have a new set ordered. My fuel filter is not mounted to the frame. It's just hanging there. This is really bad because if the metal hose breaks, I'm removing the frame to fit a new one. The fuel tank plate is being held on by 6 bolts instead of 20. Does anyone know the correct size bolts needed to mount the filter bracket to the frame and the ones needed for the tank plate? (14 of one with washers and 6 of another).
.

Filter bracket are just common 5mm bolts and nylocks.

The tank plate bolts are not common. They are 8 mm bolts but are very short (sorry I don't recall the spec length, maybe 15 mm?). The washers used are 8mm (about 3/8") center hole fender washers but the OEM ones were very thick. You can approximate this by stacking a couple of them. If you use bolts that are too long, the too-long-ness will poke holes in your A/C hoses. So be sure you get the right onse. You won't find these at the hardware store. The small ones across the front are not as critical but are 6 mm bolts. These all might be worth ordering from a DMC Vendor but the large washers don't show up on the parts page so you may end up having to find them at the hardware store.

[Boxbot]

Filter bracket are just common 5mm bolts and nylocks.

The tank plate bolts are not common. They are 8 mm bolts but are very short (sorry I don't recall the spec length, maybe 15 mm?). The washers used are 8mm (about 3/8") center hole fender washers but the OEM ones were very thick. You can approximate this by stacking a couple of them. If you use bolts that are too long, the too-long-ness will poke holes in your A/C hoses. So be sure you get the right onse. You won't find these at the hardware store. The small ones across the front are not as critical but are 6 mm bolts. These all might be worth ordering from a DMC Vendor but the large washers don't show up on the parts page so you may end up having to find them at the hardware store.

Yikes. Got it. Thanks for the heads up.

[dn010]

I opted to use stainless bolts and washers there- an air cut off tool and a vice makes it fast to get them to the proper size. Not sure it's worth it for 14 $0.27 bolts though.

[Boxbot]

This car continues to try my patience. Fuel tank cover bolted up with proper hardware, fuel filter reattached to frame, new front pass tie rod end, new rear pass wheel bearing, new brake lines, new fuel lines near accumulator and speedo cable bracket installed. My driver's side recall castle nut unit didn't have a hole for a cotter pin, so they had to drill one.

I had my shop try to diagnose some ongoing issues, all of which are still happening or have gotten worse:

1) Since used Stage 1 exhaust was put on, car was tuned but now hunts on idle between 600 and 900 RPM both hot and cold, with or without A/C and lights on. I don't even know where to start diagnosing that. When it dips down oil pressure light will flicker on.

2) rear rotational squeal on low speed left turns

3) steering tighter and no longer vague, but still notchy steering at highway speeds

4) transmission/shaft was damp. I purchased a new seal kit and o rings since. They installed but now it leaks much worse. Shop says it's a bad seal. Vendor says they probably installed wrong. Shop tried a new seal from a Lotus they had on hand, but still leaking like crazy. I should have left well enough alone.

5) doors don't latch/close cleanly and will sometimes not unlock

6) some sort of new "tuck tuck tuck " sound from behind me when car is in motion.

[David T]

Fixing up an old car can try your patience and your wallet. It seems when you cross one thing of your list 2 more things appear. It can take a while to start getting ahead.

1) If you have the Stage II cams, it will hunt more than a stock PRV. If you have the stock cams and it is hunting recheck the idle motor system.
2) Make sure you have the correct air pressures in the tires. If they are over 7 years old replace them. Maybe the speedometer cable is touching something. Is the bracket installed correctly? Is the cable too long?
3) Tire pressures, old tires, or the rack needs to be rebuilt or the steering shaft is worn out (the u-joints).
4) Someone may have touched the carrier bearing adjustment. If the diff is loose you will have to take the transaxle out and readjust the bearings. See how much play (up and down) there is. If it is noticeable the bearings need adjustment.
5) Probably have a burnt solenoid, damaged lock module and/or interior adjustments in the doors.
6) Hardware kit on the rear calipers so the pads don't make noise.

[Boxbot]

Responses transposed below:

1) If you have the Stage II cams, it will hunt more than a stock PRV. If you have the stock cams and it is hunting recheck the idle motor system.
Stock cams. Will check idle motor - but seems like it could be any number of things, right?

2) Make sure you have the correct air pressures in the tires. If they are over 7 years old replace them. Maybe the speedometer cable is touching something. Is the bracket installed correctly? Is the cable too long?
New tires. 23 front. 30 rear.

3) Tire pressures, old tires, or the rack needs to be rebuilt or the steering shaft is worn out (the u-joints).
Pressures and tires good. Hoping rack doesn't need rebuild but maybe that's it. Everything else seems nice and tight. New wheel balance and alignment done.

4) Someone may have touched the carrier bearing adjustment. If the diff is loose you will have to take the transaxle out and readjust the bearings. See how much play (up and down) there is. If it is noticeable the bearings need adjustment.
Not sure about this. Will be taking back to shop on Monday.

5) Probably have a burnt solenoid, damaged lock module and/or interior adjustments in the doors.
New uprated solenoids. Locks lock and make good sound, but sometimes the physical lock doesn't release. I believe the rods need to be re-adjusted.

6) Hardware kit on the rear calipers so the pads don't make noise.
What kit is that?

[David T]

1) Likely suspects, idle motor system, vacuum leaks. Leaks reduce the effect of the idle motor system.
6) Springs included in some of the vendor brake kits can reduce the clunk. One possible source of the clunking noise is if the rotor is cut and not scuffed. It causes "threading" where the pads rise up and fall down like a needle in a record. The faces of the rotor get scuffed up to remove any pattern. When the pads fall down they clunk or tick. Springs can also help with that and squeals.