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Thread: The further adventures of #2613

  1. #81
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,565

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    If it isn't there, it should be fuse 18, not 4.

    (Green/Purple wire in the Black bulkhead connector.)

  2. #82
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2012

    Posts:    514

    My VIN:    4502

    FWIW I removed the glass fuse (which was horribly scotch-locked to a hot wire from the ignition lock) and I wired a new cable from fuse 18 to the brake switch..
    VIN 4502

  3. #83
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,767

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Forgot to post pics of my quieter exhaust tips. Here they are, better late than never. I wiped them off today. After installation they were covered in dirty fingerprints, of course. They're polished stainless steel. I installed them with stainless steel hardware, of course (although I believe the blocks used in exhaust clamps are aluminum).

    new tips 1.jpg

    new tips 2.jpg

    new tips 3.jpg

    The red part looks stupid to me, but it will eventually turn black, and when that happens I will leave it that way.

    They butt up to the mufflers' outputs, which mean they stick out a little further than Bill's original pipes, which were the same length but slipped inside the mufflers instead. Bill's method obviated the use of another clamp, since the tips were then clamped by the exhaust hanger. But they were simple lengths of stainless steel pipe and provided no noise reduction. I think these tips stick out about the same as stock tips -- to my eye, anyway. These tips come highly recommended from a member of the LS swap community who used them to tame his very noisy V8. Of course, I haven't tested them out yet, but that will wait until #2613 has brake lights again.

    Fuse #18 in this car has always been used to hold a spare fuse. I will look for the inline glass fuse soon. Repurposing that empty fuse slot sounds like a great idea, if I can manage it.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  4. #84
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

    Posts:    146

    Tape off the tips and spray some hi-temp flat black to cover up the red. Your are making some great progress on your D.
    I have been following your progress.

  5. #85
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,767

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by BABIS View Post
    FWIW I removed the glass fuse (which was horribly scotch-locked to a hot wire from the ignition lock) and I wired a new cable from fuse 18 to the brake switch..
    I found my car's fuse in the same location. The glass fuse fell apart in my hand. Today I replaced it with a blade fuse in the same location. Problem solved.

    However, I double-checked my new brake lights just to be safe. As it turns out, one of the LED units was installed backwards. Although the box says they're not polarity sensitive, in my experience a "not polarity sensitive" LED bulb will illuminate in either position, but it will illuminate more brightly when positioned properly. I noticed one of them wasn't as bright as the others. After swapping positions, I confirmed that the socket was backwards, so I fixed it.

    As for what caused the fuse to break in the first place, who knows. I've fooled around a lot in that location, and the glass fuse was cracked, so who knows how long it had been that way. I want to check the circuit thoroughly before assuming it's all OK, just to be safe -- even a compromised fuse should still work, although this one appeared to be original (it was stamped "Lucas 25A").

    Thanks to everyone for your help!

    With the circuit repaired I was able to check function of my new LED bulbs:

    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  6. #86
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,767

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Well, this is very odd.

    My brake lights function, and then they don't, and then they function again. Although the new fuse hasn't blown, during testing I noticed the ground wire at the harness getting hot when they *DO* function. It looks like that damaged ground wire I repaired may not have been the cause of an electrical problem but instead a symptom of one. (That would explain why it was the only damaged wire in the harness, despite having been incorrectly routed above the coolant expansion tank rather than beneath it.)

    That ground wire goes back to the black connector at the bulkhead. Attempts to disconnect this connector were unsuccessful: the plastic started to crumble.

    I will assume for the moment that I can't pull that connector apart because the brass pins and connectors inside of it have corroded together. Working from that assumption, I've applied some white vinegar to the connector from the back, in the hope that it will soak the brass bits overnight and start to break down that corrosion at least enough for me to free the connector.

    I am given to wonder why that circuit was chosen to be grounded in such a roundabout way rather than taking advantage of the fact that, being so close to the engine compartment, solid grounds were more closely available. But I am not an engineer, and I assume the designers did it for a reason—perhaps none other than it facilitated more rapid assembly of the vehicle on the production line. I may re-route that ground connection temporarily to a point on the engine or frame for troubleshooting purposes: if the circuit continues misbehaving, I'll know there's a problem with the black bulkhead connector or forward of it.

    (Those bulkhead connectors are quite problematic, especially in a hot and humid climate like that of south Florida. I'm tempted to just get rid of them and turn those pins and sockets into soldered splices...)
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  7. #87
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,767

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I'm still alive, in case anyone was wondering.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  8. #88
    Senior Member Riley88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2014

    Location:  Virginia Beach, Virginia

    Posts:    466

    My VIN:    5312

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I'm still alive, in case anyone was wondering.
    Good to hear lol! I always wait for more info in this thread
    - OCT81 DeLorean DMC-12 Vin 5312 "DeLores"
    - 1978 Lotus Esprit S2 "Problem Child"
    - 1995 Mazda Miata Turbo "Happy Daily Driver"

  9. #89
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,767

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by Riley88 View Post
    Good to hear lol! I always wait for more info in this thread
    I don't have any new info right now, sorry. But frankly I was surprised that no one piped up to tell me how to troubleshoot my brake lights. Maybe after 13 years people figure I've picked up some knowledge. Or maybe I'm just too stubborn and they've given up trying to help me. LOL

    My car lives in a non-air-conditioned garage, which means I am loath to work on it during the summer months; I like to have everything sorted out before springtime, but I just wasn't able to this year. However, work has picked up somewhat since the start of the pandemic, which means I have more money to throw at the car than I did a few months ago and I will resume my work again, starting with some electrical work. If I can avoid dripping sweat into the solder...
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  10. #90
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    144

    My VIN:    6791

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I don't have any new info right now, sorry. But frankly I was surprised that no one piped up to tell me how to troubleshoot my brake lights. Maybe after 13 years people figure I've picked up some knowledge. Or maybe I'm just too stubborn and they've given up trying to help me. LOL

    My car lives in a non-air-conditioned garage, which means I am loath to work on it during the summer months; I like to have everything sorted out before springtime, but I just wasn't able to this year. However, work has picked up somewhat since the start of the pandemic, which means I have more money to throw at the car than I did a few months ago and I will resume my work again, starting with some electrical work. If I can avoid dripping sweat into the solder...
    I hear you. Even reinstalling my seattbelt receptacle in the evening was a reason to change clothes after. Of course, in the winter, it's going to be freezing.

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