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Thread: The further adventures of #2613

  1. #11
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

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    My VIN:    5003 Never placed Concourse

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    One step forward...
    -----Dan B.

  2. #12
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    One step forward...
    Yep. And now I'm waiting for the two unavoidable steps backward. LOL
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  3. #13
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    Down to 50% now.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  4. #14
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    I forgot to check in here on the moisture intrusion problem, but I think it may be the passenger inner door seal. This morning, driving to work in some very light rain, the passenger window was noticeably wet. Maybe water is getting in the door somehow? I was running the air conditioning, but none of the vents was pointed at the window.

    But I have a new problem: the engine suddenly stops running. I have a feeling of dread because that was the first sign of death for my previous engine just a few years ago. The engine would run for a little while, then grind to a halt and not re-start for some time. The more recently the engine had been running, the longer the engine would run when re-started, but otherwise would simply die. Weirdly, this happened on Monday on the way back from the gas station but after 15-20 minutes sitting on the side of the road checking the fuel system I was able to re-start the engine and get home. I figured it was the fuel filter at the carb so I changed it.

    This morning I made a 40-minute drive, mostly highway, and everything was great (except for the rain). Then five hours later when it was time to leave work, the engine died as I was sitting in the parking lot letting the a/c cool down the interior and putting my destination into my phone. I have a mystery on my hands...
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  5. #15
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
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    Do you think it may be vapor lock due to the summer temps? Do you have a spacer on the carb? I had a 67 Mercury that would act just like your car is. Installed an anti-vapor lock carb spacer and it never acted up again up until I sold the car.
    ~LXA~
    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  6. #16
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    Quote Originally Posted by Timeless View Post
    Do you think it may be vapor lock due to the summer temps? Do you have a spacer on the carb? I had a 67 Mercury that would act just like your car is. Installed an anti-vapor lock carb spacer and it never acted up again up until I sold the car.
    Interesting theory. It is true that when I checked the fuel bowl after the engine slowly ground to a halt, the fuel bowl looked low. But I think that's because the engine turned very slowly on its way to stopping. Even when hot, I was able to turn the key several times and get the engine to run for a few seconds. It just refused to idle. I was able to put my foot on the accelerator pedal and get the engine to turn faster, but when I let off the pedal the engine died instead of idling. When I checked the fuel bowl after cranking, it was at a normal level.

    I suspect a spark issue. I recently changed plugs and wires. Maybe the plugs are gapped too large. I will check the gap.

    (I have a carb spacer but I am not currently using it; it would require changing the studs on the carb for longer studs.)
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  7. #17
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I suspect a spark issue.
    As it turns out, the ignition module died. Once replaced, the problem was solved.

    ...

    I have a new problem: water intrusion. After a long drive in the rain, both floor carpets were soaked. (Glad the car has a fiberglass body, not steel!)

    I did a test and it seems the water only gets in while the car is in motion, not while parked. I'm scratching my head over this.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  8. #18
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    #2613's transmission controller is broken. I bypassed the original (rebuilt) unit years ago in favor of an Angwin controller, but it too seems to have failed. As luck would have it, the previous owner when I bought the car included all of the parts that he had removed from it, including the original controller and harness.

    The spare harness was burned and "repaired" (if you call blobs of solder and ignoring cracked insulation a repair...) so I'm going to cut the damaged bits out and splice fresh wire in, and then re-wrap the harness, before sending it to DMC Texas to have the new controller installed.

    After removing the electrical tape (a yucky task which took nearly two hours) I discovered that every wire is compromised. The most badly affected were, naturally, the large brown feed wire and the small black ground wire.

    After looking at British Wiring's website, it seems they don't have the required wires in the right colors. Although the harness will be wrapped up in black nylon and heat shrink, I want the colors to match just in case I ever have to dig into this thing again. So I am ordering wires from AutoSparks UK. Here's the parts list in case anyone else ever needs to do this repair:

    28-strand wire
    black
    red
    blue
    green
    white
    slate
    pink

    44-strand wire
    brown
    pink
    yellow
    red
    blue
    green
    slate

    Minimum is one meter, so I'll have extra. The longest splice I'll make will be about a foot. But since I don't want all of my splices in the same place (it would make an awkward lump in the middle of the harness -- like the previous owner had with all of that tape!) extra wire will be nice to have so that I can stagger the placement of the splices.

    I will post before and after photos here as the work is done.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  9. #19
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

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    Now that Dorian has passed I feel safe ordering things through the mail again. The wire, as mentioned, is already on its way from the UK. As for the loom, I have decided to go with asphalt-infused cloth like modern manufacturers use in their engine compartments. I first noticed the stuff when I was working on my PT Cruiser. The turbocharger makes the engine compartment quite hot. When I looked it up I found that it has a temperature rating of just over 300 Fahrenheit, which should be fine for the automatic transmission harness. (Unlike Chrysler I won't use tape at the ends; I'll use adhesive-lines shrink tubing instead. I already have loads of it on hand because I ordered a lot for all of the splicing I'll be doing).

    Photos of the harness to come -- or I may do a video, I'm not sure.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  10. #20
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Pro tip #1: When removing ancient electrical tape, wear disposable gloves.

    Pro tip #2: A stitch ripper is very handy for removing rubber cable sleeve.

    The wires finally came from the UK. Although everything is going to be wrapped up, I did in fact order the correct colors for my splices. As for the gauges, it looks like I erred on the side of largeness. However, since I am crimping and soldering the splices, a slight difference in gauge won't make a difference.

    ATharnessparts.jpg

    solderedsplice.jpg

    I read the "crimp and solder" method in a Chrysler factory workshop manual. I figure if it's what pro mechanics are told to do, it's what I should do. Not appropriate to this situation, but a benefit of the "crimp and solder" method is avoiding those "T-Tap" or "Scotch-Lok" connectors: simply use a crimp connector large enough for two wires, crimp the two wires on one side and solder it, crimp the one wire on the other side and solder it -- and presto, you've got a "Y" connection.

    And of course I am using adhesive-lined heat-shrink to protect my splices. (Not pictured.)

    The asphalt-infused cloth sleeving I ordered won't be here until Friday.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

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