Here are the pics. They were replaced by PJ Grady 10 years ago
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 237
Here are the pics. They were replaced by PJ Grady 10 years ago
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
They do look like PJ Grady replacement hoses but they don't look like they are the source of the leak. From the pictures it could be the fuel pump boot/cover and/or the fuel level sending unit. Is the tank full? Does it leak when it is, say, 1/2 full? Open the cover boot and see if there is fuel in the pump boot. If there is, replace the boots or maybe there is a leak at the fuel pump connections. Check the rubber gasket for the fuel sender and make sure the ring is tight. Put a dab of silicone on the rivets on the fuel level sender, they can leak.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
You may want to replace those hoses anyway as a preventative measure even if they aren’t the source of the leak.
This is what happened to mine this past September about a a mile from my house. My lines were about 20 years old.
The white piece on the fitting is the inner hose member.
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DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 237
To bad I can’t post a video. It is definitely the feed return hoses on the fuel pump leaking. The red ones in my pic. The red outer rubber is peeling away exposing the inner part of the hose. With the car running fuel is squirting out of the inner hose sheathing.100% confirmation it’s those. Are they 5/16” or 1/4”? I have been to 4 auto parts stores today and none have gates barricade. I found ArmorMark hose # 50087. It’s 5/16” for fuel injection systems. Will that work?
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
It's possible the fittings were not put on correctly and that's why they failed. If you can't get the right hose do not substitute something that will not take the pressure. It also must be Ethanol compatible. Order new hoses form a Delorean vendor and if necessary they can ship overnight. You will get the right stuff and quicker than trying to find or order the wrong stuff locally.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
As long as the hose says SAE 30R14 T2 you should be good.
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Last edited by DMC5180; 03-24-2019 at 04:54 PM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
They don't have to be Gates brand:
"SAE 30R6 hoses are designed for low-pressure applications like carburetors.
These can also be used as an emissions hose.
SAE 30R7 hoses are designed for fuel.
These can go under the hood and are typically used for low-pressure applications.
SAE 30R9 hoses are designed for high-pressure applications like fuel injection and oil.
These are designed to stand up to the environment under the hood.
SAE 30R10 includes hoses that aresubmerged in fuel.
This type of hose is used inside the fuel tank and typically on the fuel pump module. This type of hose uses a special layer on the inside and outside to prevent the core layers from being saturated in fuel. But, don’t use it under the hood. R10 hoses can’t stand the heat."
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 237
2F19A5DB-5B7C-43D1-8BF0-CA041175C14E.jpg
How important is it to attach the fuel hose to this threaded coupling? Is there that much pressure that it needs to be threaded with the flared coupling? I have been trying for hours and no matter what it leaks. I don’t have enough room left on the rigid pipe to cut it and make a new flare to seal tight. I wanted to slide the threaded part back and just slide the hose 1” over the flare and than use a hose clamp. The flare only turns and will not slide back when pushing the hose over it. That way the flare is tapered and will create a tight seal over the hose and than use a hose clamp. Thoughts.....
One of those hoses is the supply line which has to withstand 75 PSI (more just to be safe). The other line is the return line that has no pressure. So the return line is not as critical like the supply line.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/