Fuel pump return and feed line

[coreydmc]

Figures the line coupling that is leaking is the feed.
Can someone recommend what I should do now? I don’t think I have the room to cut it off and re-flare. It actually doesn’t look flared. Is this line flared?

[DMC-81]

Attachment 59533
How important is it to attach the fuel hose to this threaded coupling? Is there that much pressure that it needs to be threaded with the flared coupling? I have been trying for hours and no matter what it leaks. I don’t have enough room left on the rigid pipe to cut it and make a new flare to seal tight. I wanted to slide the threaded part back and just slide the hose 1” over the flare and than use a hose clamp. The flare only turns and will not slide back when pushing the hose over it. That way the flare is tapered and will create a tight seal over the hose and than use a hose clamp. Thoughts.....

It is important. I wouldn't do what you suggested. At minimum I would find an appropriately sized hard line to hose barb solution.

Figures the line coupling that is leaking is the feed.
Can someone recommend what I should do now? I don’t think I have the room to cut it off and re-flare. It actually doesn’t look flared. Is this line flared?

I can't tell by the picture, but it seems to be a similar compression fitting as the one I just had apart on the return line in the engine compartment. That used an olive/cutting ring/bulk ring (106980) and a Metric Tube Compression adapter (106994). The size of the return hard line was 8 mm. If it is the same type of ring, it is not a flare. When the ring is compressed, it cuts into the hard line thus making a seal. I was able to reconnect that line without it leaking. Basically I deburred, cleaned, and lubricated the ring/fitting. If you are interested, here is the thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17...d-Return-hoses

I would try that first.

[David T]

It is a steel line. To stop any leaks you must get it VERY tight. A TINY smear of RTV can help if you have tried and it still leaks. Inspect thoroughly for any cracks. You should not have to cut anything. Try not to mess up, kink, or bend that line. To replace it you must remove the body unless you run a new, different one underneath.

[coreydmc]

It is important. I wouldn't do what you suggested. At minimum I would find an appropriately sized hard line to hose barb solution.



I can't tell by the picture, but it seems to be a similar compression fitting as the one I just had apart on the return line in the engine compartment. That used an olive/cutting ring/bulk ring (106980) and a Metric Tube Compression adapter (106994). The size of the return hard line was 8 mm. If it is the same type of ring, it is not a flare. When the ring is compressed, it cuts into the hard line thus making a seal. I was able to reconnect that line without it leaking. Basically I deburred, cleaned, and lubricated the ring/fitting. If you are interested, here is the thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17...d-Return-hoses

I would try that first.

Now I am on the right rack. So my set up is the 8mm hard line and then the swivel nut # 106981 and then the olive cutting bulk ring # 106980, after that is the end of the hard 8 mm line. Is the end of the 8 mm hard line flared or does it shape itself when tightening into the fir tree connector #106982 which DMCH shows as not available
anymore?
Thank you

[DMC5180]

It is a compression sleeve. It cinches itself into the tapered seat of the fitting. A drop of oil on the threads will help the tightening process. Unfortunately, I don’t know what the correct B-nut torque is, but If I had to guess, about 15-17 lb ft.

I’m surprised you were able to separate the fitting from the line. Usually they won’t come loose from the from the line even though the nut is off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[coreydmc]

I’ll try some oil tomorrow that may help get it tighter. In the mean time I’ll order a olive cutting ring from Delorean tomorrow. I’m sure it will be hard to get the old one off since there is a groove in the 8 mm hard line keeping it from sliding off. Can’t use a dremel to cut the olive off because of sparks with fuel in the line and close to the tank....