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Thread: Uneven Injector Output ***Split from PPR Shim Source ***

  1. #31
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Remove it and prepare for a smile on your face


    EDIT: Hook up on page D:02:02 in WS manual

  2. #32
    absotively posilutely bytes311's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Remove it and prepare for a smile on your face
    Remove the hose between the FD and WUR? I'll have to look at what fittings I have, as I don't think I have fittings that can delete the fuel line entirely from the setup. I think I only have banjo fittings but I'll look again.

  3. #33
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    We're not on the same page-- BRB

    OK-- Remove the red hose...i.e you should of replaced the hose with the tester.

    Remove.jpg

  4. #34
    absotively posilutely bytes311's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    We're not on the same page-- BRB
    I'm dumb. So disconnect the FD to the WUR hose at the WUR side, and connect it to the gauge, then connect the other end of the gauge to the WUR.

  5. #35
    absotively posilutely bytes311's Avatar
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    Gotcha! I'll give that a shot, thanks!

  6. #36
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Glad to help!

    I think what you said last is the way the manual has it, but my last gauge set set looks like yours and it had enough fittings to just swap it all out....takes less iirc.


    EDIT: Almost forgot +1 Mike!

  7. #37
    Not a self styled 'Guru'
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    Quote Originally Posted by bytes311 View Post
    Attachment 59957

    I'm at work right now but I took this picture of my setup from last night.
    Ah - as Ron has already mentioned, it's does not appear to be hooked up correctly. Here is the extract here from the workshop manual for easy reference.
    pressure_testing.jpg
    To note, none of the test kit is connected to the fuel distributor. The only line you need to remove is the larger of the two lines on the control pressure regulator (or WUR if you prefer).


    Here is an example of a kit connected.
    IMG_5455.jpg

    One point of note re erroneous readings, the owner I assisted with this a couple of weeks ago found that the quick release connection on the test kit was the source of his erroneous pressure readings. He subsequently swapped that connection out and held the line in place with a jubilee clip as per the below pic.
    IMG_5456.jpg
    I would perhaps connect your kit correctly first, and if you are still getting erroneous readings, then make the change to that quick release connection.

    Finally, here is a video of the pressure kit in action, with all pressures within spec.
    https://youtu.be/NMYH2WN6rzY
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  8. #38
    absotively posilutely bytes311's Avatar
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    Thanks fellas. I'll connect it the right way and reassess.

  9. #39
    absotively posilutely bytes311's Avatar
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    So, after connecting the fuel pressure gauge the proper way, here are the results:

    Primary Pressure - 67 PSI: pp.jpg
    Control Pressure - 46 PSI: cp.jpg

    Video: https://youtu.be/VBXJ8Hf5ZjI

    I could only install two shims. Any more and Primary Pressure goes above 75 PSI and Control Pressure above 65 PSI. I also noticed that my Control Pressure goes up or down depending on my mixture setting. I had to re-adjust my mixture every time I added or subtracted a shim.

    Are these pressures acceptable?

    Edit: I must also add that the "shims" are basically washers from around my garage, and are not sized for this application.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by bytes311; 05-07-2019 at 09:47 PM.

  10. #40
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Acceptable pressures per WSM D:02:01 are:
    Primary: 71.1 - 79.7 psi
    Control: 49.3 - 55.1 psi (Warm, Vacuum port to delay valve disconnected)

    You have to reset the mixture (CO dwell) when you replace just about any major part...
    Always last, breather installed, hole plugged.

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