Leaky coolant hose connection

[DMC-81]

You aren't going to be able to weld it well because not only is it a thin pipe, where it wore through it is even thinner now. Either replace the pipe or use a piece of hose. That area is very crowded. Also common for the bolt in the steering to wear a hole in the A/C hose. One area that should be inspected regularly like the TAB's.

Thomas, you can perhaps try one of these Alumiweld brazing rods:



https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...ods-44810.html

You'll have to remove the pipe first though. There are other videos about people brazing holes/cracks in aluminum radiators.

[David T]

It is really tough welding old, dirty aluminum. It's worth trying but don't be disappointed if it doesn't work. That technique takes a lot of practice, too much heat and you wind up with a puddle of aluminum and there is a very narrow temperature range where you can weld it and where it just melts away from you and you don't get the cues you do from welding steel.

[DMC-81]

It is really tough welding old, dirty aluminum. It's worth trying but don't be disappointed if it doesn't work. That technique takes a lot of practice, too much heat and you wind up with a puddle of aluminum and there is a very narrow temperature range where you can weld it and where it just melts away from you and you don't get the cues you do from welding steel.

Yeah, but these rods are low temperature brazing type, so it is best to use the micro torch as shown in the video, rather than a full throttle full size torch. Start with a low flame and then work your way up until you get the rod to melt. It is a similar principle to soldering.

Definitely, as with most other things, it is best to first clean the area you want to repair.

I look at it this way: The pipe is already useless. A $15 trial repair may make it usable again, or worse case, you are out $15 and have experience in aluminum brazing.

I saw vendors way back promoting the product at a car show actually poking/melting holes in these thin aluminum cans and then brazing them shut. I was impressed.

[FABombjoy]

Actually, it's p/n 105989, $52.75 from DMCH. Right now I can't get the old one out from under the car (can't seem to get the front end high enough off the ground with just my floor jacks, I don't have a car lift). May have to JB Weld the hole just so I can get it someplace to put it on a lift, then replace with the new part

Ahh, yeah that one is a bit more of a pain.

I think you could cut that section out, clean up the insides/outsides of the pipes, and have a section TIG'd in place for less than a new pipe (plus shipping). I believe I still have some spare pieces of stock coolant pipe and could send you a chunk if needed.

[Citizen]

I think you could cut that section out, clean up the insides/outsides of the pipes, and have a section TIG'd in place for less than a new pipe (plus shipping). I believe I still have some spare pieces of stock coolant pipe and could send you a chunk if needed.

Thanks for that generous offer, I'll keep it in mind. Probably try the JB Weld idea first, just so I can at least get it to a shop. Either way (repair existing or replace with new), I have to be able to get it up on a lift.

T.

...

[Bob635]

Can an aluminum pipe like this be welded? Or am I looking at buying a new one?

T.


Yes, the aluminum pipe can be welded. In fact, I have had a number of them welded together to eliminate all the little rubber hoses. I did this for the IronMan Delorean project.

Bob