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Thread: running better before warming up

  1. #11
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

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    Hi Austin,

    I have a Dwell Meter as well. If you're not in a hurry, we can check your dwell and other things at the next event etc.

    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  2. #12
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Hi Austin,

    I have a Dwell Meter as well. If you're not in a hurry, we can check your dwell and other things at the next event etc.

    yeah, that would be great! if I haven't tweaked this out yet by then. Or just let me know when you're free and I can always come out.
    P.S. check my last post, I just posted a video of some reading I took.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2014

    Location:  Alexandria, VA

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    Make sure you pull your readings on 4 cyl scale.



    Quote Originally Posted by Parzival View Post


    ok so, I needed a new multimeter anyway, so I got this one.
    These are the readings cold and hot.
    I sprayed carb cleaner around the vacuum connections and I never saw any effect. I didnt get any idle hunting today, that usually ony happens after driving a fair bit, but I did take it around the block and got some jerky acceleration. Can anyone make anything of these readings?

  4. #14
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmcnc View Post
    Make sure you pull your readings on 4 cyl scale.
    really? crap!

  5. #15
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Keep in mind that vacuum leaks are not limited to the engine. You have vacuum lines running up to the front of the car, lines going to the vapor canister, etc.
    -----Dan B.

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

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    My VIN:    3937

    Have you been inside your fuel tank before? What condition are things like in there? Perhaps that jerky acceleration is something blocking off or inhibiting the fuel pump suction.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  7. #17
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Have you been inside your fuel tank before? What condition are things like in there? Perhaps that jerky acceleration is something blocking off or inhibiting the fuel pump suction.
    Yeah, It's possible, I forgot to mention that I had the problem before, and I replaced the spark-plugs and it went away, that was only a few months ago and now its back.
    The fact that the problem is only present when the cars is hot would lead me to believe its not a fuel tank issue, but I suppose it could be. Perhaps I need to do the roter and wires too.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida

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    More Testing

    Ok so here are the new readings,
    Cold, the car starts right up runs smooth and drives fine. Then it warms up and clearly goes into a second mode, The dwell readings drop down to 10 or so, car still runs great, and drives fine. However after driving for a while it goes into a third mode, the dwell readings in this mode show it swinging from 10-25 or so, in the mode the car hunts and does not accelerate smoothly under load. In this final mode the only way to get a smooth ride is to keep the RPMs high by shifting late.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,364

    My VIN:    03572

    Your mixture needs adjustment. Your running to rich. You get hunting because a warm engine runs with the idle motor almost closed and it has very little power to move the idle motor at closed locations. Try closing your curb idle screw a little more (turn CCW a little) after your adjust your mixture.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2014

    Location:  Alexandria, VA

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    Like Dave said, your low numbers indicate rich setting (lean correction). I would adjust the curb idle by turning the curb idle screw up until the RPMs increase then back it off an 1/8 to 1/4 turn. You can use your RPM tachometer on your multimeter (this function is 6 cyl) hooked up to the coil wire to identify the spot where your RPMs increase.

    If your dwell numbers stay the same afterwards, move on to CO adjustment, which will require you to VERY carefully drill out the CO adjustment plug. You will also need to make sure you have something to plug that hole after each adjustment and once the procedure is complete.

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