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Thread: Dwell at 60 all the time

  1. #11
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,168

    My VIN:    10270

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    It would not vary at all
    You may see some variance on a digital meter. Here's an old data capture of my car in warm-up mode.
    FreqValveWarmup.jpg
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Posts:    743

    O2 sensor test

    Here the results of this mornings test.

    OAT is 70F

    Cold engine, just after starting 1.02 - 1.04 volts at O2 sensor
    After 1 minute, .98 volts.
    After 3 minutes, .97 volts

    Then, at 4 minutes the engine idle started hunting, a little at first, then from 800- 1,500 rpms over and over again.
    At this point the volts steadily climbed up to 1.4 where it stayed until I turned the car off. Exhaust smells obnoxiously rich through the whole test.

    I don’t know if it means anything but the volts didn’t drop immediately after turning off the engine. It just slowly worked it’s way down to zero.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

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    Cold start valve

    I just thought of something. Whenever I start my car I always turn on the electricity and let the fuel pump finish priming before I start the engine (Dave's RPM relay). Doing this, I always hear a humming sound from the engine and I didn't think anything of it. Today I turned on the electricity, the pump primed, and I opened the engine covers to see what was making that noise. It was the cold start valve. I thought it was only supposed to run during cranking? Perhaps the cold start valve is running all the time?
    Last edited by CFI; 04-26-2019 at 10:23 AM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,004

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by CFI View Post
    Here the results of this mornings test.

    OAT is 70F

    Cold engine, just after starting 1.02 - 1.04 volts at O2 sensor
    After 1 minute, .98 volts.
    After 3 minutes, .97 volts

    Then, at 4 minutes the engine idle started hunting, a little at first, then from 800- 1,500 rpms over and over again.
    At this point the volts steadily climbed up to 1.4 where it stayed until I turned the car off. Exhaust smells obnoxiously rich through the whole test.

    I don’t know if it means anything but the volts didn’t drop immediately after turning off the engine. It just slowly worked it’s way down to zero.
    The sensor should have no voltage until it warms up. This is sounding like your lambda ECU is bad. When I program my wide band I set the wideband output to 0.5 volts and to swing fast higher or lower if the AFR is not what I want. The wideband feeds the OEM lambda ECU directly into the O2 input circuit.
    Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 04-26-2019 at 10:24 AM.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2014

    Location:  Northwest Florida

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    My VIN:    Midproduction

    Cold start relay or cold start valve? I know the Idle motor buzzes when the key is on run. It's also right next to the cold start valve. Sure it's not that? The CSV is easy to test of course.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,004

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by dmcnc View Post
    Cold start relay or cold start valve? I know the Idle motor buzzes when the key is on run. It's also right next to the cold start valve. Sure it's not that? The CSV is easy to test of course.
    +1
    Unless you have my idle ECU the idle motor will run (buzz) when ever the key is on.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmcnc View Post
    Cold start relay or cold start valve? I know the Idle motor buzzes when the key is on run. It's also right next to the cold start valve. Sure it's not that? The CSV is easy to test of course.
    Cold start valve. I touched it and felt it vibrating. I'll unplug it and see what happens.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by CFI View Post
    Cold start valve. I touched it and felt it vibrating. I'll unplug it and see what happens.
    The CSV should only get power when the starter is cranking the engine. Make sure your bulkhead connectors are plugged into the correct mating connector.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Posts:    743

    I unplugged the cold start valve and the noise is not coming from that, it's coming from the idle motor. Running without the cold start valve made no difference.

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Posts:    743

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    The CSV should only get power when the starter is cranking the engine. Make sure your bulkhead connectors are plugged into the correct mating connector.
    Connectors look good but the blue one has a wire that was cut out.126738A0-889A-4323-A50B-CCBCE7FF0A45.jpg

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