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Thread: New Owner: The Greatest Adventure of #6895ís 1100 mile journey

  1. #11
    Senior Member Boxbot's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Location:  Near Philadelphia

    Posts:    121

    My VIN:    1596

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Welcome and congrats!

    Quote Originally Posted by megamanex View Post
    fuel tank cleaned with new filter installed
    What about fuel pump and fuel hoses? The original pumps and rubber are long past their sell by date.

    Quote Originally Posted by megamanex View Post
    new stainless steel clutch line
    Take a peek at the master clutch cylinder by the clutch pedal. See if it's leaking and if so, not a dangerous amount.

    Quote Originally Posted by megamanex View Post
    My overall question is this...should I attempt the 1100 mile drive in the car or just rent and tow the car the whole way down?
    Every situation is different. It's hard to say in a vacuum. It sounds like you probably have the bare essentials to try it (working brake system, replaced coolant hoses, new fans, working turn signals and A/C). I went to pick my car up under the impression that it "needed nothing" and was "driven regularly," only to find that it needed a lot of things done (and re-done correctly). Good luck!

  2. #12
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

    Posts:    77

    Towing insurance. Hopefully everything will go OK and won't need it. AAA or your car insurance company and check their limitations.

    Congratulations and I hope it will be a great adventure bringing it home.

  3. #13
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,203

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    The safest choice would be to trailer or have the car transported. Flying into a distant city, getting a car that you don't know the exact condition of, getting plates and insurance, driving it a long distance and unfamiliar with the car, the weather can get bad, any of these things can go wrong. If the tires are old they can blow, you could overheat, a lot of things can go wrong. Often the decision is not made logically, you do it on emotion and luck. If you do break down the tow will cost a lot more than if you had it transported in the first place. If you figure your plane fare, time, tolls, gas, and all of the other associated costs besides the obvious cost to fix the car. Overheating the motor and "popping" the cylinder heads can cost a LOT. I vote you tow or transport the car home where you can work on it and enjoy it safely and close to home. If you do choose to drive it, take a fire extinguisher, extra water, some hand tools, wire, tape, fuses, battery pack, AAA card, cell phone, a list of other Delorean owners on the way that could help. You can never carry enough spare parts and the ones you do take you won't need. A tire pressure gauge, a fuel can, a can of tire sealant. Don't trust the fuel gauge till you KNOW it is accurate, go by the trip odometer if the speedo works. Run a can of Techron through a full tank of gas. Make sure all of your lights work. A camera and maybe a good luck charm.
    David Teitelbaum

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2014

    Location:  Virginia Beach, Virginia

    Posts:    338

    My VIN:    5312

    fire extinguisher and check those fuel lines my man, seriously
    - OCT81 DeLorean DMC-12 Vin 5312 "DeLores"
    - 1978 Lotus Esprit S2 "Problem Child"
    - 1990 Mazda Miata "Happy Daily Driver"

  5. #15
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Apr 2019

    Location:  Los Angeles

    Posts:    14

    My VIN:    6895

    I've just heard back on a the fuel lines.
    They're not the original lines from '81 but are newer and aren't steel braided (which I plan to change). The pump is new.

    He's telling me the master clutch isn't leaking but i'll be taking a flashlight down there to check it out.

    Fire extinguisher is a definite first get upon receiving the vehicle.

    David T,
    I'm going to give it a day or so driving around the city before committing to try the long haul drive. It ANYTHING seems off I'll be towing it the whole haul down facing forward and covered.

    Jets 81,
    Insurance is on the car for towing and breakdowns 100 percent!

  6. #16
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.

    Posts:    1,619

    My VIN:    0934

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by megamanex View Post
    7. Wiper blades are a good call. Does anyone know the part number where I could pick up a entirely new set to take on my way?
    The original refills or blades were Bosch 40920. Looks like they're NLA.

    Practice getting both wipers of off the hook on the wiper arm. No fun to fuss with in the rain if they are stuck.

    Both wipers are 20in. size and mount on the hook connector as you will see. Napa, Autozone, any decent parts store will have something that fits.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111

    Posts:    825

    My VIN:    2691

    wipers

    I have 22 inch wipers...no problems

  8. #18
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Apr 2019

    Location:  Los Angeles

    Posts:    14

    My VIN:    6895

    I'm feeling MUCH better about the work done to the car and the ability to drive it after getting the full history on the car.
    Looks like it was worked on in 11/2018 and had quite a bit done to it by Delorean Northwest.

    Sorry this will be a long post...

    Full (abbreviated) history below:
    R&R OR ADJUST TORSION BAR OR RETAINING PLATE (EACH, REAR SCREEN FINISHER REMOVED))
    R&R REAR SCREEN FINISHER/REPLACE UNICAPS
    SHOP TIME - Perform in-situ clean out of CPR ports

    MODE SWITCH REPAIR KIT
    R&R A/C CONSOLE FACE PLATE
    R&R MODE CONTROL SWITCH (A/C FACEPLATE REMOVED)
    REBUILD A/C MODE CONTROL SWITCH

    SWITCH, COOLING FAN THERMOSTAT
    FUEL PUMP - AFTERMARKET
    HOSE, FUEL PICK UP
    HOSE, FUEL RETURN INSIDE TANK TO BAFFLE
    SEAL, FUEL PUMP CVR
    RING, FUEL PUMP
    SCREEN, FUEL PUMP
    LINE, FUEL RETURN
    Fuel tank baffle assembly with wire hold-downs, support ring
    CLAMP, HOSE


    CLEAN OUT TANK IN CAR
    R&R FUEL PUMP ACCESS COVER
    R&R FUEL PUMP AND/OR INNER COVER SEAL AND/OR SUPPORT
    R&R BAFFLE, PICKUP HOSE OR PICKUP SCREEN

    CALIPER KIT, FR
    CALIPER KIT, REAR
    PISTON FRONT
    PISTON REAR
    PADS, F&R (CERAMIC
    BRAKE FLUID
    R&R FRONT CALIPER
    OVERHAUL FRONT CALIPER
    DETACH HANDBRAKE CALIPER
    R&R REAR CALIPER
    OVERHAUL REAR CALIPER
    BLEED AND FLUSH BRAKE SYSTEM

    High Performance fans from DPNW
    HOSE KIT W/ RADIATOR
    HEADER BOTTLE, ALL STAINLESS ASSY
    COOLANT - PREMIX
    CAP,COOLANT RESVR
    INSTALL COMPLETE COOLANT HOSE KIT INCLUDING RADIATOR (COOLING SYSTEM BLEED & FAN THERMO SWITCH & SEAL, CHECK ELECTRIC COOL FAN OPERATION INCLUDED)
    R&R PLASTIC COOLANT RESERVOIR, REPLACE WITH STAINLESS STEEL


    STEERING BUSHING, STRG COL
    REPLACE STEERING COLUMN BUSHING
    R&R UPPER STEERING SHAFT JOINT

    IGNITION WIRE SET - 8MM, BLACK
    CAP, DISTRIBUTOR
    ROTOR, DISTRIBUTOR
    Spark Plugs - Set of 6
    WASHER M8 COPPER
    WASHER M12 COPPER
    R&R wires, plugs, cap, and rotor

    THROTTLE CABLE
    R&R THROTTLE CABLE ASSY (INCLUDES CHECK FOR FULL THROTTLE OPENING)
    R&R CENTER CONSOLE (FRONT PANEL AND COIN TRAY REMOVED)

    Epoxy damage on frame at various points - front frame cradle, belly pan, rear frame cradle, trailing arms, front crumple tube inner surfaces
    POR-15, Gray (4 ounce can)
    Remove old damaged epoxy as required and then apply POR-15 to protect exposed steel. Includes chipping, grinding, sanding, and application of new coating.
    Perform in-situ cleaning and repainting of the LCA's to the extent possible without removal

    BOOT, LWR BALL JOINT/TIE ROD END
    REPLACE TIE ROD END BOOT (EACH

    OIL FILTER
    LOF: LUBE OUTER SUSP'N JOINTS, CHANGE ENGINE OIL & FILTER, 4WAY SPRAY RUBBER SUSP'N BSH'GS; INSPECT BRAKE PADS, TIRE PRESSURES, ALL FLUID LEVELS, AND LIGHTS.

    Front sway bar bushings rusty and delaminating. One threaded hole in frame partially stripped, other bushings stiff.
    BUSHING,STAB STAR
    BUSHING,STAB-BAR
    Stud - zinc plated, M10
    NUT, M10 NYLOC

    MASTER CYLINDER, BRAKE
    R&R BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
    BLEED AND FLUSH BRAKE SYSTEM

    The below was completed last month.

    SLAVE CYL, CLUTCH
    STAINLESS STEEL CLUTCH LINE
    R&R CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
    INSTALL FLEXIBLE STAINLESS STEEL CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
    FLUSH & BLEED HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM
    Last edited by megamanex; 05-06-2019 at 11:40 AM.

  9. #19
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2016

    Location:  SW FL

    Posts:    183

    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Extensive list - I'd feel much better as well if that was my purchase.
    ~LXA~

  10. #20
    Senior Member Domi's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  France

    Posts:    2,343

    My VIN:    16951

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DOA) (DCUK)

    Welcome here and congratulation on your purchase
    Have a safe trip back and please keep us updated

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