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Thread: Lower door strut ball replacement

  1. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    When removing the rear plastic valence and working on the Tee panel be aware of all of the VERY sharp edges of the S/S. As mentioned, that plastic piece is very easy to damage so be really careful with it. Once you remove the 3 screws you kind of roll it out from the bottom and release it from the tabs on the back edge of the Tee panel. Don't force it. Sometimes I have to slightly bend the tabs on the Tee panel to get the plastic valence to release. When re-installing the Tee panel you should make sure there is enough foam to hold the panel up in the front so the doors don't rub on it. Center it so both doors have equal gap on top. After you take the Tee panel off you should inspect the "roof box" for rust. Clean it up and cover it with POR 15. I use a rag on a stick, it is a messy job but you can't do it delicately.
    Timely advice, Thanks Dave.

  2. #22
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    Finally got the guts to start the lower door ball stud replacement project. Removing the outer door seal was easy, what was behind it took a full day to clean up and remove. Layers and layers of old RTV. When I replace this seal, what is the best practice on applying RTV? I was thinking 2 parallel lines of RTV running the length of the new seal then pressed into place.

    Recommendations?

    IMG_1163.jpg

  3. #23
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

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    Use contact cement, not RTV.

    -Easier to position as you install it - no taping or drying period
    -Removable with adhesive remover
    -Doesn't squish out and seep from around the seal
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Use contact cement, not RTV.

    -Easier to position as you install it - no taping or drying period
    -Removable with adhesive remover
    -Doesn't squish out and seep from around the seal
    Great. Do you have a recommendation for the Contact Cement to use in this application?

  5. #25
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

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    The hardware store stuff should work fine. I use it with those cheap acid brushes.
    Apply it per the directions and you should be set: Light coat on both surfaces, wait until tacky, then slowly and carefully press it in to place.

    You really don't need to apply it to the area of the outer bulb, just the flat. A little goes a long way and it holds very well. I would rather put too little on and then touch up spots later than put too much on an have to clean up excess. But you actuall can clean up excess with adhesive remover/naphtha/lacquer thinner and that's why it beats RTV for this job.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  6. #26
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    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    The hardware store stuff should work fine. I use it with those cheap acid brushes.
    Apply it per the directions and you should be set: Light coat on both surfaces, wait until tacky, then slowly and carefully press it in to place.

    You really don't need to apply it to the area of the outer bulb, just the flat. A little goes a long way and it holds very well. I would rather put too little on and then touch up spots later than put too much on an have to clean up excess. But you actuall can clean up excess with adhesive remover/naphtha/lacquer thinner and that's why it beats RTV for this job.
    Thank you! Really appreciate the insight.

  7. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

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    Successfully removed the T-Panel (the green tape will help with repositioning panel to original location) and got the suspect bracket out and replaced with the DPI offering.

    No fiberglass damage, it was a bent bracket.

    The new one isn't going anywhere!

    IMG_1169.jpgIMG_1168.jpgIMG_1170.jpg

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