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Thread: Lower door strut ball replacement

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Lower door strut ball replacement

    Does anyone know if the DPI Lower Door Strut Reinforcement bracket kit requires removal of rear quarter panel. I'm assuming the T-panel must come off.

    Has anyone used it and is it the current leading recommendation? Passenger side ball stud looks to be no longer straight nor loose, so thinking it has come to replacement/repair time.

    Thanks in advance.
    Steve

  2. #2
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    I used the kit from Grady years ago, it involved removing the upper infill panel if my memory is fine. Unless the original bracket was warped so much that you now have damaged fiberglass, you don’t need to remove the quarter panel. You’ll need rivets and RTV.
    -----Dan B.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
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    I used deloreanGos kit for this. Its super robust, stainless steel front place with 3, yes THREE backing plates. I installed both sides in one evening. The rear quarters didn't have to come off, just un screw them down to the strikers and you can pull them out enough to get the space needed to install the new beefy brackets.

  4. #4
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    I did not use any of the plates for the back. I felt the bracket is well made compared to original and wouldn’t bend. I think the back plates are useful if you have fiberglass damage.
    -----Dan B.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    I did not use any of the plates for the back. I felt the bracket is well made compared to original and wouldn’t bend. I think the back plates are useful if you have fiberglass damage.
    the only worry I have about not using the back plates is the bolts pulling loose from the fiberglass. You're right, the new plate wont bend, but it could come loose. the original plates have a backing plate as well. When I installed the new plates I didn't have any fiberglass damage, just bent plates, I did paint a layer of fiberglass resin on to the underbody and then sandwiched the the plate and the backing plates into the underbody. Pretty easy, and I'll never have to worry about it again as long as I live.
    I think this is project is in every Delorean owners future, every car I see has some degree of bending unless its been fixed already.

  6. #6
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Along with the bolts I also used the hardcore rivet that came with the brackets. Need a larger rivet gun for them. I opted to do both sides even though only one was bad. I too doubt I’ll need to revisit them in the future. Definitely get them changed before you do get fiberglass damage.
    -----Dan B.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    Along with the bolts I also used the hardcore rivet that came with the brackets. Need a larger rivet gun for them. I opted to do both sides even though only one was bad. I too doubt I’ll need to revisit them in the future. Definitely get them changed before you do get fiberglass damage.
    ah, the DeloreanGo kit does not utilize rivets. just bolts and nuts that are welded to the backing plates. So with this kit I don't think you could go without the backing plate.

  8. #8
    President, DeLorean Industries
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    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Our kit can be installed by partially pulling back for clearance by removing the leading edge hardware. Seamless and invisible when installed.
    www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Thank you to everyone for the recommendations. Seems straightforward if I've caught it early enough.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Parzival's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iflights View Post
    Thank you to everyone for the recommendations. Seems straightforward if I've caught it early enough.
    you're probably fine, post some pictures when you're in there.

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