Well, here was mine and I avoided any FG damage.
DSB.jpg
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,106
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
Well, here was mine and I avoided any FG damage.
DSB.jpg
-----Dan B.
Location: Florida
Posts: 326
Here is mine, Notice around the edge you can see the resin I added is still curing.
Here is the final result.
Here was the original plate and backer. I drew I line through it to show how bent it was.
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Mine is just about at the same angle, if not a few degrees less.Originally Posted by dn010
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Ok, I reviewed the Workshop manual T-panel removal instructions. Not much there other than removing the 3 screws under the outer door seal on each side of the door is all I see, then pulling it to back to the rear of the car?
What about these adhesive strips under the T-Panel I've heard about? Not mentioned in the workshop manual at least on the page describing T-Panel removal.
Am I missing anything?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,106
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
There are three screws on each side you mentioned but there are also three screws holding down the plastic strip above the rear glass you have to remove. Once that is unscrewed you pull the bottom of the plastic towards the rear of the vehicle and it will disengage from the tabs on the T panel. If it is original be careful as the plastic is brittle. The screws may or may not have plastic protective caps on them. Then you can slide the T panel back and off the car. Any adhesive that may be there is probably deteriorated by now and I have never reapplied it any time my panel has been removed.
If you need visual help, the plastic strip holding the back of the panel is part number 105721.
-----Dan B.
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Thanks. Exactly what I needed to know.
Location: Syracuse, NY area
Posts: 1,025
My VIN: 10287
Club(s): (DMA)
Replacing these are next on my projects list. I've replaced the torsion bars and bolted the roofbox down so I figure this is the last weak spot I need to deal with.
What are the differences between the DI and DeLoreanGo kits? Neither one needs the quarter panel removed, right? I don't want to remove it if I do not need to.
Nick A.
1988 BMW 325is
1982 DeLorean DMC-12
1989 Jaguar XJ6
Location: Florida
Posts: 326
you will need to undo the quarters hardware enough to pull them away from the car a little bit. The don't need to come off.
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
That's what I'm hoping for. Josh from DPI weighed in that removing the leading edge screws should give me enough room to manipulate the panel to create some space. I went with his kit.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,576
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
When removing the rear plastic valence and working on the Tee panel be aware of all of the VERY sharp edges of the S/S. As mentioned, that plastic piece is very easy to damage so be really careful with it. Once you remove the 3 screws you kind of roll it out from the bottom and release it from the tabs on the back edge of the Tee panel. Don't force it. Sometimes I have to slightly bend the tabs on the Tee panel to get the plastic valence to release. When re-installing the Tee panel you should make sure there is enough foam to hold the panel up in the front so the doors don't rub on it. Center it so both doors have equal gap on top. After you take the Tee panel off you should inspect the "roof box" for rust. Clean it up and cover it with POR 15. I use a rag on a stick, it is a messy job but you can't do it delicately.
David Teitelbaum
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