Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Finally got the guts to start the lower door ball stud replacement project. Removing the outer door seal was easy, what was behind it took a full day to clean up and remove. Layers and layers of old RTV. When I replace this seal, what is the best practice on applying RTV? I was thinking 2 parallel lines of RTV running the length of the new seal then pressed into place.
Recommendations?
IMG_1163.jpg
Use contact cement, not RTV.
-Easier to position as you install it - no taping or drying period
-Removable with adhesive remover
-Doesn't squish out and seep from around the seal
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
The hardware store stuff should work fine. I use it with those cheap acid brushes.
Apply it per the directions and you should be set: Light coat on both surfaces, wait until tacky, then slowly and carefully press it in to place.
You really don't need to apply it to the area of the outer bulb, just the flat. A little goes a long way and it holds very well. I would rather put too little on and then touch up spots later than put too much on an have to clean up excess. But you actuall can clean up excess with adhesive remover/naphtha/lacquer thinner and that's why it beats RTV for this job.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Successfully removed the T-Panel (the green tape will help with repositioning panel to original location) and got the suspect bracket out and replaced with the DPI offering.
No fiberglass damage, it was a bent bracket.
The new one isn't going anywhere!
IMG_1169.jpgIMG_1168.jpgIMG_1170.jpg