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Thread: Clutch slave replacement

  1. #1
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    Clutch slave replacement

    Hello, All. I have bolted my new clutch slave cylinder in place but am struggling to introduce the operating pin into the end of the cylinder. Is it theoretically possible to pry the clevis far enough back to swivel that pin into the slave cylinder? I have my car over my pit and the access is poor at best and I have failed in all attempts to introduce the operating pin prior to bolting the slave in position.
    Failing the prying method, has anyone tried cutting out the bar which supports the swiveling pin and substituting a bolt after the pin is in position?
    Thanks.

    P.S. (Why oh why didn't PRV mount the slave at 6 o'clock on the bell housing like everyone else does instead of 12 o'clock?)

  2. #2
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alvanjudson View Post
    Hello, All. I have bolted my new clutch slave cylinder in place but am struggling to introduce the operating pin into the end of the cylinder. Is it theoretically possible to pry the clevis far enough back to swivel that pin into the slave cylinder? I have my car over my pit and the access is poor at best and I have failed in all attempts to introduce the operating pin prior to bolting the slave in position.
    Failing the prying method, has anyone tried cutting out the bar which supports the swiveling pin and substituting a bolt after the pin is in position?
    Thanks.

    P.S. (Why oh why didn't PRV mount the slave at 6 o'clock on the bell housing like everyone else does instead of 12 o'clock?)
    What worked for me was:
    1) prying the clutch fork back
    2) introducing the slave by inserting the operating pin in first and then sliding the slave down into its mounting on the bell housing.
    3) start the two 7 mm bolts and thread them halfway
    4) release the pry bar

    It can be done from underneath, but you値l need patience and a few cuss words.

    I wouldn稚 remove the rivet bolt, because you値l still have to pry the fork but you値l need to thread the replacement bolt instead.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    What worked for me was:
    1) prying the clutch fork back
    2) introducing the slave by inserting the operating pin in first and then sliding the slave down into its mounting on the bell housing.
    3) start the two 7 mm bolts and thread them halfway
    4) release the pry bar

    It can be done from underneath, but you値l need patience and a few cuss words.

    I wouldn稚 remove the rivet bolt, because you値l still have to pry the fork but you値l need to thread the replacement bolt instead.
    Thanks, Dana, for your lightning fast reply. When you described "what worked for you" were you somehow operating from on top or from underneath? I have found that it is, for me anyway, impossible tor raise the slave high enough and keep a controlling grip on it, to pop the operating pin in it before mounting the slave....with or without pre-prying. There just isn't enough clearance and I even took the small water hoses out of the way to try to improve access : all to no avail.

    And I've tried the cuss words .

  4. #4
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alvanjudson View Post
    Thanks, Dana, for your lightning fast reply. When you described "what worked for you" were you somehow operating from on top or from underneath? I have found that it is, for me anyway, impossible tor raise the slave high enough and keep a controlling grip on it, to pop the operating pin in it before mounting the slave....with or without pre-prying. There just isn't enough clearance and I even took the small water hoses out of the way to try to improve access : all to no avail.

    And I've tried the cuss words .
    Oh, you are welcome. I was working from underneath. I used a long pry bar and wedged it so I had the fork secured, and both hands free. You are right, I couldn't pry and maneuver. I was working alone, but perhaps if you had a helper to hold the fork while you maneuver the slave, that may do the trick.
    Last edited by DMC-81; 05-18-2019 at 07:06 PM.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Oh, you are welcome. I was working from underneath. I used a long pry bar and wedged it so I had the fork secured, and both hands free. You are right, I couldn't pry and maneuver. I was working alone, but perhaps if you had a helper to hold the fork while you maneuver the slave, that may do the trick.
    I did have the pry bar clamped back and both my hands free. With the pry bar deployed the lever only moved about 1/2". (Plenty for declutching of course but not enough to get the pin in.)
    I think I'm going to have to try removing the rivet bolt and go that route. Wish me luck. Thanks again for your help. Here goes!

  6. #6
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    Clutch slave replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Oh, you are welcome. I was working from underneath. I used a long pry bar and wedged it so I had the fork secured, and both hands free. You are right, I couldn't pry and maneuver. I was working alone, but perhaps if you had a helper to hold the fork while you maneuver the slave, that may do the trick.

    Solved!
    After further deliberation, I did what you recommended Dana but decided to attack the problem from on top. I removed the engine cover, a couple of fuel and vacuum lines and got great access to the slave cylinder. From the top it's quite straightforward to install the mounting bolts, the fluid line and the actuating pin. In fact, with the benefit of hindsight, I'd say the only reason to venture under a DeLorean for this job is to pry the clevis back and clamp the pry bar. Again thanks for your help.
    Alvan Judson

  7. #7
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alvanjudson View Post
    Solved!
    After further deliberation, I did what you recommended Dana but decided to attack the problem from on top. I removed the engine cover, a couple of fuel and vacuum lines and got great access to the slave cylinder. From the top it's quite straightforward to install the mounting bolts, the fluid line and the actuating pin. In fact, with the benefit of hindsight, I'd say the only reason to venture under a DeLorean for this job is to pry the clevis back and clamp the pry bar. Again thanks for your help.
    Alvan Judson
    Great that you got it resolved!

    Definitely, it's much easier from the top.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

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