How Closes Should Emergency Brake Pads Be?

[lazabby]

I have rebuilt one of the rear calipers. I reinstalled everything yesterday and I was wondering how close the emergency brake pads should be. I have the long screw as loose as possible and it seems the pads are just touching the brake rotor. It seems that would cause wear on it. Shouldn't the emergency brake pads just be off the rotor? I plan to take off the other rear tire to get a look at how it's situated there.

Shannon

[WHO1DMC]

I have rebuilt one of the rear calipers. I reinstalled everything yesterday and I was wondering how close the emergency brake pads should be. I have the long screw as loose as possible and it seems the pads are just touching the brake rotor. It seems that would cause wear on it. Shouldn't the emergency brake pads just be off the rotor? I plan to take off the other rear tire to get a look at how it's situated there.

Shannon

The caliper screw adjustment is more of a "fine tuning" mechanism to balance the brake action between the two sides of the car. On each of the parking brake calipers you will see that there is a very thin cotter pin that goes through a screw which is holding it in place. Remove the cotter pin, turn the screw in a clockwise direction (to tighten), while trying to turn the brake rotor. Once the parking brake pads grab on the rotor to the point it will not move, turn the screw counter-clockwise until the rotor does turn. Continue counter-clockwise enough to reinstall the cotter pin.

This is from the DMC knowledge base web page.

Dave B.

[Ron]

You might want to adjust both sides at the same time:
Do the adjustment for cables 12 & 13 first (at arrows) making sure the unnumbered swivel piece (circled) remains perpendicular (else it may bend or 'jump' apart). Then "fine tune" as Dave posted.
HB.jpg

Possible something shown in section 24 might be missing/broke/bent, (#39 Retraction Plate, spring,...)??

[David T]

You do not adjust the pads by the gap. You adjust the cables and handle so when it is fully released there is minimal drag and when you pull the handle you can stop the wheels after only a few clicks. The E brake is supposed to self adjust but they never work. Try to adjust so both calipers are as even as you can make them. While you should adjust by that cable end the big screw is the way to do it. Should not need more than 1/2 to 1 turn. Be sure to secure with a cotter pin. Make sure the pivot that the pads turn on is not frozen stuck. Also make sure the friction materiel is not coming loose from the backing plate.

[kings1527]

You might want to adjust both sides at the same time:
Do the adjustment for cables 12 & 13 first (at arrows) making sure the unnumbered swivel piece (circled) remains perpendicular (else it may bend or 'jump' apart). Then "fine tune" as Dave posted.
HB.jpg

Possible something shown in section 24 might be missing/broke/bent, (#39 Retraction Plate, spring,...)??

Can you elaborate a bit more on adjusting cables 12 and 13? I never knew about that adjustment and after adjusting at the pads with the cotter pin and screw, I've adjusted mine "as good as it's going to get" but I've always known it could be better. I think the cable adjustment is what I've been missing.

Thanks Ron!

[Ron]

Can you elaborate a bit more on adjusting cables 12 and 13? I never knew about that adjustment and after adjusting at the pads with the cotter pin and screw, I've adjusted mine "as good as it's going to get" but I've always known it could be better. I think the cable adjustment is what I've been missing.

Thanks Ron!

I found it odd that the only mention of this adjustment I could find in the manual(s) is where they say to mark the cable adjustment in the manual transmission removal procedure.
(I had to steal some pics ;-) From memory:

The cables may be out of adjustment if it has been removed (for trans/clutch removal, cleanup, etc.). The cable sheath ends at the handle should be seated fully into the bracket. (See yellow arrows below. 1st pic, they are loose). If they or the actual cable gets too loose, the actual cable's end will fall out of the 'swivel' (see red circle below), a PITA to put back! -- You will need a helper.

First make sure the cables are routed correctly and all cable clips/grommets/fasteners are installed and tight. Remove the cotter pin and adjust some slack in the Adjustment Bolt (#37). Loosen the 2 nuts at the caliper end of each cable (4 nuts total, see blue circles below). Each pair of nuts jamb each other holding the cable to its bracket. Someone needs to watch the handle end to make sure the actual cable ends don't fall out, the sheath ends remain seated in the bracket and tell the other person how the swivel alignment looks. Meanwhile, the other person adjusts the nuts until the sheath ends are seated tight and the swivel is perpendicular WRT its halves AND the two cables, by walking one set of nuts in and the other out. (See red in pics below).

"Fine tune" per previous posts then re-check swivel alignment when park brake is applied.

Again, don't let the cable ends fall out -- You may find it easier to disconnect the entire assembly at the handle end from the body to begin with...

loose.jpg

AN.jpg

SW-P2.jpg

Dgm.jpg


Let me know if something is not clear or...??

======

P.S. Don't expect a lot out of the P-Brakes...I've seen several with the swivel bent.

[SS Spoiler]

Put a wire tie loosely around the cable
ends to keep them in the grooves

[David T]

Really should not be necessary if everything is working and set up right. I have also seen cables frozen (stuck) so you are only really pulling on one caliper. Make sure both cables move freely and it can't hurt to lubricate them.

[DMC-81]

I found it odd that the only mention of this adjustment I could find in the manual(s) is where they say to mark the cable adjustment in the manual transmission removal procedure.
(I had to steal some pics ;-) From memory:

The cables may be out of adjustment if it has been removed (for trans/clutch removal, cleanup, etc.). The cable sheath ends at the handle should be seated fully into the bracket. (See yellow arrows below. 1st pic, they are loose). If they or the actual cable gets too loose, the actual cable's end will fall out of the 'swivel' (see red circle below), a PITA to put back! -- You will need a helper.

First make sure the cables are routed correctly and all cable clips/grommets/fasteners are installed and tight. Remove the cotter pin and adjust some slack in the Adjustment Bolt (#37). Loosen the 2 nuts at the caliper end of each cable (4 nuts total, see blue circles below). Each pair of nuts jamb each other holding the cable to its bracket. Someone needs to watch the handle end to make sure the actual cable ends don't fall out, the sheath ends remain seated in the bracket and tell the other person how the swivel alignment looks. Meanwhile, the other person adjusts the nuts until the sheath ends are seated tight and the swivel is perpendicular WRT its halves AND the two cables, by walking one set of nuts in and the other out. (See red in pics below).

"Fine tune" per previous posts then re-check swivel alignment when park brake is applied.

Again, don't let the cable ends fall out -- You may find it easier to disconnect the entire assembly at the handle end from the body to begin with...

loose.jpg

AN.jpg

SW-P2.jpg

Dgm.jpg


Let me know if something is not clear or...??

======

P.S. Don't expect a lot out of the P-Brakes...I've seen several with the swivel bent.

Great instructions. I used a version of these to adjust my e-brake when I rebuilt my calipers. I adjusted them so the pads just clear the rotors when released, and on my car, full engagement happens in 3 clicks. This is enough to hold the car on an incline. I understand that the swivel/handle mechanism often gets bent, presumably when someone pulls really hard on the handle like one needs to in some other cars.