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Thread: Blend door actuator arm broke...

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  kansas city

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    hi

    its part number 101752.. it is the arm piece that is attached to the vacumn valve piece....

  2. #12
    Senior Member Rhye's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2013

    Location:  Poland

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    I'm not sure, do you mean P/N 105066? That's the part that came to mind when painterdave72 described it.
    My parts catalogue says 105068, but that's the same part.

    lever.jpg
    Last edited by Rhye; 06-10-2019 at 03:10 AM.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    hi not part 23

    Hi its pic 25 on your diagram.. not 23...

  4. #14
    Senior Member Rhye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by painterdave72 View Post
    Hi its pic 25 on your diagram.. not 23...
    OK, clear. So if the arm of the actuator itself is broken, then the question is if it's possible to take the actuator apart and replace the arm with reproduced part - can't recall how it's made but I can check mine Friday evening.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    hi

    yes it can be taken apart It looks like it just snaps together.. I glued mine today with some panel bond adhesive so it should be good hopefully..

  6. #16
    Senior Member Rhye's Avatar
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    I've created a 3D model of the actuator arm optimized for FDM 3D printing, just in case one want's to recreate the part. Metal rod has to be fabricated according to the drawing and glued in. These are just prototype parts so they'll have to be tested for fit and function.

    STEP file dimensions are in millimeters (packed in ZIP archive 'cause for some reason it's not possible to attach it directly). Printing direction according to the coordinate system of the model (part in horizontal position).

    101752_01A_Arm.zip
    101752_02A_Rod.PDF

  7. #17
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Orlando, Florida

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    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    For what it's worth, mine broke about 6 years ago, and I made one out of aluminum. I took sheet aluminum (I think maybe 12ga?), cut it into a shape approximately the right length with a pair of snips, drilled two holes in it, and used a small square file to turn one of the holes into a square. Then I bent it so that it had the right offset, and that's it. It's been working great ever since. Could easily be done with aluminum, steel, or stainless purchased at Lowes/Home depot.

  8. #18
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Location:  Taylors SC

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    For what it's worth, mine broke about 6 years ago, and I made one out of aluminum. I took sheet aluminum (I think maybe 12ga?), cut it into a shape approximately the right length with a pair of snips, drilled two holes in it, and used a small square file to turn one of the holes into a square. Then I bent it so that it had the right offset, and that's it. It's been working great ever since. Could easily be done with aluminum, steel, or stainless purchased at Lowes/Home depot.
    It doesn't have to be a particularly strong part since it's just attached to plastic anyway. I've made one or two from aluminum, like you said the hardest part is drilling a square hole. Tiny files will do the job.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

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