Can't start after valley job

[81dmc]

It really sounds like it's trying to start.

You can try a shot of starter fluid. Exactly when the engine fires, mash accelerator to 50% or so and hold it for 10 seconds. Always worked when I had my frequent k jet problems. In fact, I made it a habit to start with the accel pushed only partially so it would start up 99% of the time. If you mash it to the floor, it may not start at all.

As for gurgling... Oil? Maybe coolant?

[mark w]

Since youve been cranking and cranking, enough to kill the battery, then your washing fuel in to the cylinders and washing away the oil. Thats all ending up in the oil pan....so once you get it going. Change the oil, because its most likely contaminated with Fuel and now too thin. I suggest you find the problem and reduce the cranking and cranking....your could be causing bearing and ring damage.

[kings1527]

Since youve been cranking and cranking, enough to kill the battery, then your washing fuel in to the cylinders and washing away the oil. Thats all ending up in the oil pan....so once you get it going. Change the oil, because its most likely contaminated with Fuel and now too thin. I suggest you find the problem and reduce the cranking and cranking....your could be causing bearing and ring damage.

That's what Ron was getting at a few posts back along with other posts. It doesn't sound like anything fuel related is happening at all, especially since he pulled the plugs and they were fine. But in other circumstances, you're absolutely correct about the issue with oil getting thinned out.

[Parzival]

don't worry guys, I'll be changing the oil as soon as I get it started.
The cold start valve is firing, so there is some fuel activity. I jumped the fuel pump and pressed down on the plate with one of the injectors out and it sprayed nice. I wonder tho if one is leaking and causing a problem. Well, actually I wonder a lot of things at this point. I have no idea what to check or try,
as far as the pipe of agony goes, it keeps coming up, I used to borescope to look all around it. its in there and sealed up. Like I said before I alway rub a tinny bit of gasket silicone on it when I put it in. so it should be air tight.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Do you see the tach moving when your cranking the engine?

[kings1527]

And the results from the plug swap test?

[Parzival]

Do you see the tach moving when your cranking the engine?

Yes I believe so.

And the results from the plug swap test?

Makes no difference.

[kings1527]

Ok. So if a plug swap made no difference, then that points to electrical. A plug swap will force fuel into the manifold and if it’s not starting after that, then it rules out fuel.

I’d start with making sure your battery is good and also look at the ballast resistor to make sure nothing came undone. A strong possibility since you were doing work in the area. Also check the connections at the coil to make sure all is well and good there. This is all assuming no work was done to any plugs or plug wires, Cap and rotor. It’s also assuming that when you took out the mixture unit, no changes were made to the mixture screw; the unit was simply removed and then replaced without doing anything else to it.

[Ron]

That makes sense to me. But no spark would make it flood and there is no sign of flooding...

A viscous circle...

[Parzival]

That makes sense to me. But no spark would make it flood and there is no sign of flooding...

A viscous circle...

right, and when i'm trying to start it a get a few pops here and there like 2 cylinders fire but nothing consistent.
and there's the fact that I somehow got it to run for 2 minutes that one time. meaning that the spark plugs were at least working then, and the cap and rotor and coil and all that.