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Thread: Final drive leak; does this bolt go through?

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    851

    My VIN:    767 (3.0L EFI/EDIS)

    The o-ring I have is part 33 here, https://store.delorean.com/c-391-4-5-7-final-drive.aspx , 103013, which seems to go behind the adjustment nut in the parts diagram? What I've been calling the "key" is the screw retainer, which is where the fluid seems to be collecting before dripping -- like you said.

    Spray it with ether? I'm not entirely sure what you mean there. I've sprayed it with cleaner and wiped it off before, but I don't think that's what you mean?

    I like the baby powder idea. I'll try to pull it off tomorrow morning, clean the surfaces, and see where it's running from in the afternoon. Hopefully I can track it down.

    I know the fluid is final drive fluid, at least. The old stuff was brown and the leak was brown, and the new stuff is more green and leaks green.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe

  2. #12
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,167

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Yes, we're together there -- I said "key" to keep the terminology the same ;-)

    On the adjustment nut o-ring (not side gear o-ring 103013): It's been a long time since I played with an adjustment nut. There is no mention of a sealant for the threads and I seem to remember a large o-ring to seal the outer part of the nut/threads off. But I can't find it in any of the parts diagrams unless it is mounted on the the nut HERE. Anyway, the nut doesn't get tightened down and crush/squash the o-ring, like say, a oil drain plug seal... You turn the nut until you get it adjusted correctly and the o-ring slides in the beginning of the bore, before the threads, while sealing it between the nut and bore, iirc. ...like a piston ring (w/o a gap ;-) It has to be "loose", which is why it requires the key/nut retainer.
    Maybe someone else has a pic (or can shed more light on things there).

    Ether/starting fluid, will rinse it even in the the cracks etc. and leave it very clean and more important, very dry.
    ...If you put then the powders on first, a leak will clear a path and you might catch it when it starts. If you wait until after it leaks to put it on, it will stick to the oil only and you might follow it back to the source. Just depends on how well the powders stick to the dry aluminum if you use them first...

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    851

    My VIN:    767 (3.0L EFI/EDIS)

    I did this today -- at 10 AM or so I took the bolt and key off, cleaned the area, sprayed it with starter fluid and cleaned it more, and put some cardboard under the car.

    I just checked on it (at 5 PM), and the cardboard is completely dry. There are no drips at all, and the flange area itself is just as dry. As best I can tell this was just some oil I spilled on the case when filling the final drive, and replacing the lip seal fixed the problem.

    I should mention that the old lip seal definitely needed replacing, or at least re-seating -- it was sitting at a slant in the case. So it may well be that al I needed to do was the lip seal.

    I'll report back if the leak re-appears, but at the moment it looks like everything is good.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe

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