Great work. I love the 15" wheels on the front - such a terrific look.
Great work. I love the 15" wheels on the front - such a terrific look.
~LXA~
Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry
Location: sacramento
Posts: 1,415
My VIN: 1768
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Awesome work! Glad you could get those big front tires to fit. I'm running very tight clearance on my front tires at a simular ride height but 205 50 15s and just -1.0 camber.
Spacing the LCA rearward will give you clearance but it will also remove caster and make it feel less stable at higher speed. I recommend moving the upper arm rearward too. I'd be curious what your alignment numbers are first.
Keep up the nice work. Looking forward to the Ferrari brakes.
Posts: 115
New brakes are under way.
before/after
Posts: 115
Front done
onto the rear
Posts: 115
Fronts mounted ... and fit with plenty of room to spare
Rear rotors with spacers
Posts: 115
Fabrication for all the brakes are now complete. So here are some shots.
Front rotor comparison:
on the car comparison:
Rear rotor comparison:
on the car comparison:
Rear brake bracket was a nightmare to make, but the machinist was able to come up with a solution.
Completed rear suspension, brake, wheel and tire assembly
In other news, the Viper had a u-joint strap fail on a WOT 1-2 shift and took out an axle and the rear diff. So 3 of my 4 cars are officially in the air.
Posts: 115
It's ALIVE!!!!
... and hilarious to drive. Need to get a few things in working order, but going to get some miles on it in hopes that they "self correct"
Posts: 115
Took the DMC out for lunch today, it was all good. Such an easy car to drive.
On the way home, hit a big bump and a few hundred feet later it dies. Definitely fuel related.
Talk to my buddy who got it road worthy and explained how there was a part of the fuse box with a melted housing for a 20AMP fuse and thought that was the likely issue, he threw in a spare 20AMP fuse in case there was a future issue. I check it and bingo, fuse popped.
New fuse in and I'm off. 4 miles down the road it popped again.
Something moved when I hit that bump and is grounding out the fuse for the fuel pump. Time to hunt that down.
Location: Syracuse, NY area
Posts: 1,025
My VIN: 10287
Club(s): (DMA)
Fuse #7 is notorious for melting the fuse block. A lot of us use an inline fuse holder in #7 to help reduce the heat buildup. Sorry she stranded you but you got home safely and it sounds like you have a good handle on what's going on.
Nick A.
1988 BMW 325is
1982 DeLorean DMC-12
1989 Jaguar XJ6
The fuel pump fuse has popped with one owner because his frequency valve shorted. Another common problem is the WUR heater shorts but often that does not pop the fuse mostly because the wiring to it is small gauge wire and it does not draw enough current to drive the fuse past it blow current. The fuel pumps draw about 7 amps and the lambda and FV only add about another 2 amps. The WRU heater is less than 1 amp.
You can pull the WUR heater connector to maybe get a chance to get you home if that happens on the road somewhere.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/