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Thread: Odd things found as I learn about 10342

  1. #11
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    I feel for ya -- Just went through similar for an intake manifold/plenum I did NOT want to remove lol.
    You would need to know if the seat is OK and how much meat is left for threads to choose a method.
    All of the links I saved below:

    Good Seat (Precise drilling is required!):
    repair-kit-for-1-4-in-to-7-16-in-or-7mm-to-10mm-screws
    repair-kit-for-5-16-in-8mm-and-larger-bleeder-screws (Tap to 1/4 NPT)
    (Check seat angles!)

    Bad Seat
    brake-bleed-valve-kits (Very Expensive)
    bleeder-screw-repair-kit - (Tap to SAE 7/16-20 Instructions) Best bet if you have enough material left, imo.

  2. #12
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

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    My VIN:    10270

    Quote Originally Posted by SBL View Post
    Note that the 5/16 is SMALLER that the 10 mm stock, so rather than a "hack" on the original part
    Isn't the stock bleed screw BSP? The OD of 1/16 BSP is less than 5/16. I've not seen that referenced as metric before.

    I with with "hack" based on the visible 2lbs of goo squished out from the housing on a seal that should be O ring.
    Last edited by FABombjoy; 07-12-2019 at 12:52 PM.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  3. #13
    Senior Member SBL's Avatar
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    Location:  Treasure Island, FL

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    My VIN:    10342

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    The stock is 10 mm X 1.0 thread.

    http://dmctalk.org/archive/index.php/t-16482.html
    Steve Liggett
    Treasure Island, FL
    1982 automatic, VIN 10342, grey int

    Previous: VIN 5983, VIN 3670
    Who knows where my previous 1981 with 6 cylinder Chevy engine is these days (cannot find that VIN) ?

  4. #14
    Senior Member SBL's Avatar
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    My VIN:    10342

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    NEXT ODDITY:

    I am continuing to go through each system. I believe that I found a problem with the vacuum solenoid or WUR.

    Using a logic table form Dave of DMC Midwest posted 05-15-2012:

    Cold engine at idle should be YES vacuum at warmup regulator T and NO vacuum at distributer vacuum line: my car is YES and NO, as it should be

    Warm engine at idle should be NO vacuum at warmup regulator T and NO vacuum at distributer vacuum line: my car is Yes and NO, which is incorrect

    Warm engine at 1500 RPM (idle microswitch not engaged) should be NO vacuum at warmup regulator T and YES vacuum at distributer vacuum line: my car is Yes and YES, which is incorrect

    So, the WUR seems to be getting vacuum all the time, which is not correct. The distributer vacuum line function seems to be correct. I took a look at the voltage at the connector to the solenoid when unplugged. It is 12v when at idle. It does not go to 0v when off idle, but rather goes to 4-5v. Not sure if that would go to 0v when under load of the coil in the solenoid. Should have tested that.

    So, where is the problem?
    Steve Liggett
    Treasure Island, FL
    1982 automatic, VIN 10342, grey int

    Previous: VIN 5983, VIN 3670
    Who knows where my previous 1981 with 6 cylinder Chevy engine is these days (cannot find that VIN) ?

  5. #15
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Sounds like the thermal control valve is bypassing, IE, feeding the WUR and solenoid all the time.
    Check at those two (ie not at the distributor) dead cold and warm to be sure.

    Use a test/probe light to see if the voltage to the solenoid (disconnected) comes and goes as expected. (It provides a load needed to test correctly...if the bulb does not glow when off idle, forget the "4-5v".)

  6. #16
    Senior Member SBL's Avatar
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    Yep that is is, the thermal control valve is not functional. The vac advance part is working, but not the WUR part. As long as I don't mind (possibly) a more difficult cold start (it is never cold here), could I just feed the solenoid with vacuum and let the idle microswitch control that, and clamp off what is going to the WUR? At least it will not have a tendency to run rich while moving down the road. As I understand it. Not ready to go into the valley.




    i
    Steve Liggett
    Treasure Island, FL
    1982 automatic, VIN 10342, grey int

    Previous: VIN 5983, VIN 3670
    Who knows where my previous 1981 with 6 cylinder Chevy engine is these days (cannot find that VIN) ?

  7. #17
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,453

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by SBL View Post
    NEXT ODDITY:

    I am continuing to go through each system. I believe that I found a problem with the vacuum solenoid or WUR.

    Using a logic table form Dave of DMC Midwest posted 05-15-2012:

    Cold engine at idle should be YES vacuum at warmup regulator T and NO vacuum at distributer vacuum line: my car is YES and NO, as it should be

    Warm engine at idle should be NO vacuum at warmup regulator T and NO vacuum at distributer vacuum line: my car is Yes and NO, which is incorrect

    Warm engine at 1500 RPM (idle microswitch not engaged) should be NO vacuum at warmup regulator T and YES vacuum at distributer vacuum line: my car is Yes and YES, which is incorrect

    So, the WUR seems to be getting vacuum all the time, which is not correct. The distributer vacuum line function seems to be correct. I took a look at the voltage at the connector to the solenoid when unplugged. It is 12v when at idle. It does not go to 0v when off idle, but rather goes to 4-5v. Not sure if that would go to 0v when under load of the coil in the solenoid. Should have tested that.

    So, where is the problem?
    I would think there should be a cold engine at 1500 RPM test which should have vacuum at the WUR and no vacuum at the distributor.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #18
    Senior Member SBL's Avatar
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    My VIN:    10342

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    well it was more like 2000. Clearly not at idle with the microswitch not engaged.
    Steve Liggett
    Treasure Island, FL
    1982 automatic, VIN 10342, grey int

    Previous: VIN 5983, VIN 3670
    Who knows where my previous 1981 with 6 cylinder Chevy engine is these days (cannot find that VIN) ?

  9. #19
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SBL View Post
    Yep that is is, the thermal control valve is not functional. The vac advance part is working, but not the WUR part.
    I'm not sure if you did the first test I suggested and updating or ???
    If you mean, "The vac advance part of the system is working,..." I'm with you.
    If you mean, "The vac advance part of the thermal control valve is working,..." something is wrong....

    Quote Originally Posted by SBL View Post
    As long as I don't mind (possibly) a more difficult cold start (it is never cold here), could I just feed the solenoid with vacuum and let the idle microswitch control that, and clamp off what is going to the WUR? At least it will not have a tendency to run rich while moving down the road. As I understand it. Not ready to go into the valley
    The WUR vacuum has virtually no affect WRT starting. The WUR uses the vacuum only to improve acceleration when the engine is cold. (It's other functions are controlled by temperature.)
    Connecting it as you suggest will cause it to go lean when you accelerate, if the engine is "cold".

  10. #20
    Senior Member SBL's Avatar
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    Ron,

    The voltages at the connector are correct when having a load on it, as we suspected. And yes I checked the lines coming right from the thermal control valve dead cold (well about 80 deg F ambient, as "cold" as it gets here) and hot after a cycle of the fans. The line designed to the WUR is always showing vacuum. I also did my best to see if the 3 lines are connected correctly to the thermal control valve, but it is hard to see in there. I remember a post that showed a way to tell, but that probably assumed that the valve was functional.

    Agree that when the engine is warmed up, the WUR being without vacuum would not affect acceleration, as I read it.
    Steve Liggett
    Treasure Island, FL
    1982 automatic, VIN 10342, grey int

    Previous: VIN 5983, VIN 3670
    Who knows where my previous 1981 with 6 cylinder Chevy engine is these days (cannot find that VIN) ?

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